We have listed wines from the irrepressible Vincent Girardin since 1988, and over that time have watched both the man and his wines grow in stature. With his Swiss wife, Véronique, he has created a state-of-the-art winery, the size of an out-of-town superstore, and has reduced the amount of new oak he introduces to his white wines. Power and depth are watch words here. His focus is increasingly on whites and on 'estate' rather than bought-in grapes.