The Australian wine industry is undergoing another massive transformation. The large corporations that have dominated the scene over the last fast moving decade now have some serious competition. Massive plantings are coming on stream and a new bevy of estate producers - more professional than the weekend wine-makers of the 1980s wine scene - are putting their own grapes in bottle rather than selling to the large brand owners. All this is great for Australian wine lovers, even if there are plenty of new names to grapple with - a small price to pay.

The premium wine regions of Australia are never much more than fifty miles from the ocean and its maritime influence on the climate. Moving further inland means ever increasing temperatures and declining rainfall, both enemies of producing quality grapes. Some of the southernmost areas of Victoria and high vineyards are as cool as Bordeaux and Burgundy. Bulk production, which provides the grapes for some very drinkable wines, takes place along the Murray River and its tributaries. These areas are neatly bracketed together under the unofficial but useful name ‘The Big Rivers’, an area which stretches across the northern limits of Victoria, up into New South Wales and down into South Australia. In summary, you can be guaranteed that if there is an ideal corner for each grape variety, the Australians will find it.