Another pop at wine heritage came recently from collected red winegrowers from the Gimblett Gravels, the stony soils of Hawke’s Bay. Taking on an assortment of prestigious clarets from Bordeaux in a blind tasting, New Zealand’s representatives were very much ‘in the mix’ as judged by a panel of leading journalists and dignitaries.

We are not surprised, although these contests can show startlingly different results from one day to the next. What is without doubt however, is vindication of our long-held belief in the high quality of New Zealand Cabernet/Merlot blends, and, with a little more time, you will see them consistently turning in star performances.

One of the most northerly vineyards is that of Kumeu River, just north of Auckland on the North Island. The slightly increased warmth gives a fatness to their wines, and the Pinot Gris is particularly successful, but Michael Brajkovich’s star turns are his Chardonnays, quite Burgundian in style with some racy acidity and built to last five to ten years. Bottled under screwcaps, they are a real eye-opener.

The seat of North Island viticulture is Hawke’s Bay, the standard bearer for claret styles since the late 1990s. One of the secrets to success here are the so-called Gimblett Gravels, the ancient bed of the Ngaruroro River. Free draining, suspiciously similar to the Médoc, and warm, this is very good for C J Pask and Kate Radburnd, one of the most talented winemakers in the country. Kate gets a round, ripe feel to her wines whether you prefer the straight Merlot or the Gimblett Road blend, and these are perfect for the Bordeaux enthusiast who wants to compare outside France. Te Mata Estate, our other Hawke’s Bay representative, is in fact the oldest winemaking property in New Zealand - great elegance and sophistication is immediately obvious in their Awatea blend. The third winery from North Island is in Martinborough, just south of Wellington on the southern edge. This area is developing a real reputation for Pinot Noir, and there is a dense, concentrated and certainly vivid feel to Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, a very fine wine indeed. Célèbre is more elegant with plenty of character, more restrained than its stablemate.

Crossing the Cook Strait, you quickly get to Blenheim and the burgeoning Sauvignon Blanc vineyards of Marlborough. Heading our range is Churton, run by Sam and Mandy Weaver who are staunch supporters of Tanners and masters of this most fashionable grape. Rightly so, because Sam gets superb balance and body into his wine which should be a must-buy selection. His efforts to reduce the naturally high alcohol levels in his Pinot Noir are also worth noting, and have won much acclaim from the critics. Sam is a thinker, and we are proud to work so closely with him. Jackson Estate is in the middle of Marlborough’s Wairau River valley. The wines are particularly ripe in style, with a rich intensity in their Sauvignon Blanc. Mud House meanwhile takes parcels of grapes from all over Marlborough to fashion a very pungent, direct Sauvignon, while their Riesling is an excellent food wine with a depth of flavour to it.

The most southerly vineyards in the world are on South Island in Bannockburn, Central Otago. Making wine here you can imagine is fairly nail-biting - you are on the edge of viable grape ripening. Fortunately Felton Road’s vines are protected by a north-facing ridge, and the Chardonnay is certainly ripe enough to take barrel-fermentation while the Pinot Noir is graceful and classical in composition.

Adrian Patterson