Visiting South Africa you would be surprised how each producer claims that their climatic conditions are different from the next.

‘It’s terribly hot up there in Wellington,’ one says says; ‘We’re much cooler in Walker Bay,’ says another. Such big changes are odd when you consider the areas are only an hour or two apart. In fact the main quality wine area is little more than Chichester to Eastbourne and up to London! Undoubtably the jagged mountain chains create a variety of microclimates, as do the ocean currents which sweep along the Cape’s coasts on three sides. The general climate is more Northern Spain than Middle France, consequently the whites are full and rarely delicate, and the reds powerful with 14.5% being the norm not the exception. The whites are strangely more reliable whereas reds need stringent selection, tarmac aromas and un-ripe tannins being common problems.

Any tour of the South African vineyards should start at the top of the cable car on Table Mountain. Look north and you see the Stellenbosch and Durbanville vineyards and ridge upon ridge of mountains.

A ten minute walk across Table Mountain affords you views south over the vineyards of Constantia, the rocky hills winding their way to the Cape of Good Hope, 20 miles on. Here in Constantia, Klein Constantia, belonging to the Jooste family is a great estate.

Stellenbosch starts around False Bay and one of the first estates is beautiful Meerlust - in the Myburgh family since 1756 - where sea breezes lead to slower ripening of grapes and therefore fine reds. Just north are the Bottelary Hills - gentle in comparison to the savage Simonsberg range which forms the backdrop to nearby Stellenbosch town - and a fine place for generous reds like those of Kaapzicht, made by a great couple, Danie and Yngvild Steytler. They have a salt-of-the-earth attitude that’s definitely more braais (barbecues) and 4x4’s than helicopters and flagpoles! The Chenin Blanc grape thrives round here and you will struggle to find better than the Blue White from mother-and-daughter team, Fran Potgieter and Irina Von Holdt and their ‘Women’s Empowerment’ team at Old Vines Cellars. They also make the Spring Valley wines.

From Stellenbosch there is a spectacular road that heads between the mountains past historic Boschendal before you turn right to Franschhoek. With its wide leafy main street, art galleries and restaurants, Franschhoek has become a ‘must visit’ on any Cape tour. It is the source of our ever-reliable Freedom Cross wines. Set above the town, with glorious views over the patchwork landscape of the Franschhoek Valley is Petite Ferme. It’s a famous restaurant but Mark Dendy-Young also makes rather good wine, and Tanners takes all the Sauvignon Blanc he can spare us. If he has run out in the restaurant, chances are he will tell you to go to Shrewsbury to buy some!

The road beyond Franschhoek climbs up over a pass before dropping down into Elgin, a centre for apple growing. Here Paul Cluver senior, a Cape Town neuro-surgeon, with Paul Cluver junior and his three sisters have increasingly diversified from apples into wine and have been highly successful with more aromatic, cooler climate varieties. Slowine is an associated entity being a partnership between Paul Cluver, Villiersdorp Cellars, Luddite and Beaumont wineries which all supply grapes from the general Elgin/Villiersdorp area. Labels are inspired by the Slow Food movement, except their tortoise is a local ‘Road Walker’ tortoise. Just down the road, Cathy Marshall has taken over some disused apple sheds to give a proper home to her miniature winemaking operation. There is a basket press, an assortment of small tanks and some fibreglass tubs, in fact all you need to make great wine as long as you have the same know-how and dedication that Cathy has.

Back on the Garden Route, a right hand turn takes you to the popular seaside resort of Hermanus. Just short is the Hemel-in-Aarde (Heaven on Earth) valley, home to Bouchard Finlayson where there is a stunning (and rarely used) house with superb views down to the ocean which gives cooler conditions for growing Burgundian look-a-like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Further afield in Swartland, Allesverloren (prettily named when you know it is pronounced ‘Alice- floren!’) makes lovely soft, cedary wines that recall Cape reds of old. From Robertson, you will find the Wide River wines to be superb value for money.

James Tanner