Whether it’s the fresh crisp style of England, so typified by the acclaimed Nyetimber, or the soft, creamy riches of Tanners Cava, there is a lot of character to pop out of a bottle of well-made sparkling in this collection.

Intriguing too: take Blanquette de Limoux, where you have a wine first described in the fifteenth century and still produced in as similar fashion as possible to the original recipe.

We have taken on an excellent value Argentinian in Pampas, very easy drinking, while Australia is represented by Sunnycliff, a straightforward, biscuity and full bodied wine. A step up takes you to Jansz and Pelorus, both showing the class of Pinot Noir in their breeding, both from the cooler Antipodean climes. Popular Prosecco is probably the lightest in style, a foaming beauty from the Veneto, full of aroma and perfect on a hot day, as is the very gentle, deliciously sweet Moscato d’Asti. All have the balance between fruit and lemony acidity that is so crucial in a sparkling wine of any calibre.

Robert Boutflower