Time spent in Seville, Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda teaches you two things: firstly that sherry is a young person’s drink there and secondly that sherry goes extraordinarily well with food. Manzanilla and Fino in fact are treated just like white wines in that they are served well chilled and drunk in quantity. We suspect, however, that sherry producers will have to stop using the dark brown, stoppered or screw cap bottles before their wines will have their rightful place on restaurant lists over here alongside Meursault and Muscadet as the perfect accompaniment to shellfish.