Has the bubble burst in Bordeaux? Probably not: many commentators will reassure you that the 2008 vintage is still worth pursuing, and many En Primeur deals are being struck. However, the strength of the Euro against Sterling has made 2008 wines come on to the market at a higher price than many would wish, ultimately meaning that earlier vintages are looking more and more attractive. You will see that we have managed to list a fair number of 2005 wines, with some excellent 2006 and 2007 clarets on the way. It may be time to catch our breath. After all, 1997 produced some real gems for those who waited, making some excellent mid-term drinking at decent prices!
For true typicity and quality, you can do little better than
Tanners Claret, made for us by the négociant house Sichel with whom we have dealt over many, many years. Equally consistent is J-P Moueix on the Quai du Priourat in Libourne, run by the urbane Christian Moueix. Their own Saint-Emilion and Pomerol wines benefit from leftovers from the constellation of illustrious Right Bank properties that they own and run. Choose them with confidence.
The biggest challenge in Bordeaux is not chasing allocations of the top châteaux, but putting together a range of good value, characterful wines which are typical of their region, with good fruit that will also age well. These are properties you can rely on for their consistency, even in the simplest style.
Château Malbat is at the far south-eastern limit of the Bordeaux appellation near Langon and makes an honest, fruity glass of claret, in the same vein as
Grand Jean, which, like
Trocard, is a Merlot-based wine for early drinking. Jean-Louis Trocard makes his as a slightly tighter, classically-styled Bordeaux Supérieur.
Cru Cantemerle is an immaculate property near Fronsac making an elegant, balanced wine with a firmer centre, from an area which deserves a greater following. Graves de Vayres is across the river, south of Libourne and here the talented Pascal Sirat makes
Tour de Gueyron. In the Bourg and Blaye the Germain family makes wine with plenty of oak influence, but also good fruit at Peuy-Saincrit and Peyredoulle while Chantal Amart’s
Montaiguillon is a classically styled claret from Montagne-Saint-Emilion which repays some ageing. In the northern Médoc
Château Patache d’Aux is a big, forward, fruity wine while its near neighbour,
La Tour-de-By, has more elegance and length. Both are long-standing favourites of ours that consistently deliver good wine. Finally, a mention of the Thienpont family that has established the reputation of the tiny Côtes de Francs area virtually single-handedly.
Château Laclaverie is owned by Nicolas Thienpont who makes deliciously full-throttle claret at a super price.
Stephen Crosland
2007 - A cool vintage, but some good, early drinking, fruity if lighter styles. You had to choose very carefully but there is excellent drinking here. Sauternes in contrast was almost 2001 standard.
2006 - Extremes of weather caused problems. The best properties made very good wines, and they look good value against 2005. Dry whites were outstanding.
2005 - A superb, possibly legendary vintage when everything came together. A year when everyone could have made their best claret ever.
2004 - A classic vintage with fresh fruit and ripe tannins. Their excellent balance will let them start drinking early and wines from low yields will keep well. Very good dry whites; mid-term, fresh Sauternes.
2003 - Big, powerful reds came out of the heatwave, where Saint-Estèphe, Northern Mèdoc and the Right Bank shine. Rich opulent sweet whites. Both are drinking earlier than predicted.
2002 - Needing time to soften, these are attractive, well-structured wines with a classic feel. Lesser names are perfect to drink now.
2001 - In the shadow of 2000, a mid-term drinker that is showing lovely balance and charm, although you should keep the ‘cru’ clarets longer. Sauternes is a wonderful, classic vintage.
2000 - An excellent vintage, very regular and consistent on both left and right banks and throughout the price range. Particularly good for some of the smaller Châteaux where the quality was excellent and the prices did not rise to the extent that they did further up the scale. Long term, balanced wines. Dry whites good too.
1999 - A good, typical vintage which is drinking well across the board.
1998 - A superb year for the Merlot based wines of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol but also some excellent wines from the Médoc.
1997 - A good year and many of the wines are exhibiting lovely fruit and are drinking well already. Prices which seemed high on release now look reasonable. An opportunity to buy first growths at reasonable prices.
1996 - A cool summer but a wonderful autumn saw exceptional quality being harvested, especially in the northern Médoc.
1995 - A very hot, sunny summer led to a vintage with abundant fruit and good, harmonious tannin levels.
1994 - There are some extremely good Saint-Emilion and Pomerols though quality is a little less even in the Médoc. In general, a classic long lived year.
1993 - Ideal for the short and mid term. Modern techniques salvaged some decent to good wines from what otherwise would have been a difficult year.
1990 - A great vintage that produced wonderfully rich, concentrated wines.
1989 - Full bodied, powerful wines that have a touch of the New World to them.
1988 - Fine wines offering excellent drinking.
1985 - Merlot was particularly distinguished in 1985 leading to many delicious wines, enjoyable for their ripe plumpness and harmonious flavours.
1983 - Elegant and long, these clarets are lovely mature wines now.
1982 - A superb vintage, the best continuing to age remarkably well.
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