No longer an afterthought, rosé wines are more and more successful and also of higher quality than ever before although accessibility and ease of drinking are always key factors. Try any of these modern style wines either by themselves or with food.

Summer suits them best, but even on cold winter evenings this is a style which often brings more fruit and substance than a glass of white. Certainly you can do no better than our own Tanners Rosé from Gascony, which has enough depth to be a really good food wine as well as a glugger!

More from the South of France include Prieuré de Montézargues from Tavel; Bergerac’s Château Miaudoux, easy drinking and a shade lighter than the delicious Domaine du Poujol blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Château Villerambert-Julien is bigger again, full of the warmth of the Minervois, deep-coloured with flavours to match. Château du Galoupet is an excellent example of the elegant, delicate rosés from Provence.

For a more classical Old World style, you need to look at the Dezat family’s Sancerre Rosé. From pure Pinot Noir, it has built up a loyal following among customers over the years. Otherwise Europe is further represented by the soft strawberry tones of Viñas del Vero’s Tempranillo, and we have a new blend, strong on Carignan, from Massaya in the Lebanon.

New World rosés tend to be either off-dry - look at Pato Torrente, Santa Digna or the medium-sweet, light alcohol Angel’s Flight - or serious, dry and structured offerings such as the two Australians from Margan and Fairbank.

Stephen Crosland