In 1898 Hippolyte Brunier planted the first vines on the stony soils of the Crau plateau, which lies in the southeast of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Fourth generation, Fréderic and Daniel now run the 72 hectare property of the magnificent Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe and continue to build on the work of earlier generations. The Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe estate takes its name from the tower on the hillside built in 1792 by M. Chappe. Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe produces only four wines, their top cuveés from their oldest vines: the complex Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Red from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, and the powerful Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe White from Clairette, Grenache, Roussanne and Bourboulenc; and their two second wines the red and white Le Télégramme. Also under the Brunier stable are Domaine la Roquette, purchased in 1986 as a lighter faster maturing style of Châteauneuf compared to Vieux Télégraphe, and Domaine Les Pallières in Gigondas where the previous owner Pierre Roux had no heir to succeed him. Methods at Pallières are very traditional and the vines average at least 50 years of age. Les Pallières had been in the Roux family since the 15th century.
An outstanding vintage, particularly in the south where the balance
Also packed with superlatives, with the North just doing more than the
South – very pure, rich Syrah with tremendous potential.
Certainly a ‘curate’s egg’, where we were careful to buy only the best.
One of the few dips in the ‘noughties’ really.
This fabulous vintage tops even the outstanding 2006, 2005 and 2004s.
A remarkable run, but tasting these wines has been an absolute pleasure
in recent years, and these brilliant wines will last, the top styles easily
making 15 – 20 years, yet having the fresh fruit structure to enjoy in their
A very hot vintage, which has resulted in very rich wines, possibly
better in the north.
A little disappointingly light.
The Brunier family produces one of the region’s most celebrated Chateauneuf-de-Papes, Vieux Telegraph. These vineyards, just outside the official Chateauneuf zone, are predominantly grenache, and have produced a supple, warming, sweetly fruited red.
The Sunday Telegraph, 26th October 2013
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