Burgundy 2022 En Primeur

Overview

After the myriad of issues with the 2021 vintage, 2022 represents a return to normality in Burgundy – not just in weather conditions but in the quantities produced and in the style of the wines. We met with happy growers who reported very few problems during the growing season. Heat and drought were concerns but rain fell at the right time, helping to produce well-balanced wines with great freshness and fine elegant tannins in the reds that will provide excellent drinking in the mid-term.

The Big Picture

Although 2022 has provided a welcome relief after the shortages of 2021, it is still just a return to a ‘normal’ quantity and average in terms of recent vintages rather than a bumper crop. There is still upward pressure on prices from ever increasing costs of production, as well as worldwide demand although this is tempered for some by gloomy economic forecasts. It is worth mentioning though that quality has never been higher, particularly in the lesser-known villages such as Auxey-Duresses and Marsannay, and with the parcels of Bourgogne Pinot Noir or Chardonnay from growers in well-known villages. Often these vineyards are very well situated close to very expensive names and excellent value can be found if you’re prepared to take the path less trodden. This is particularly true in a vintage like 2022, where good ripeness and well-balanced wines were achieved throughout the region.

The Wines

Balance, fruit and freshness are the keywords both for red and white wines. The Côte de Beaune whites have attractive floral aromas and white fruit flavours rather than yellow fruits. There is good freshness on the finish, but this is tartaric rather than malic acidity and so there is no harshness, and the wines will age well. Reds are similarly aromatic with red fruit flavours, fine, ripe tannins on the finish and again attractive freshness giving balance and vivacity to the wines. The Côte de Nuits wines have a slightly different feel, mainly as the harvest started a little later here. The wines are a touch fuller, both red and white, with some of the reds showing touches of black fruits too. Alcohol levels are generally in the 12.5%-13.5% region. Given that it was a fairly hot summer the fresh style might seem surprising, and growers offered various explanations, from the vines getting used to warmer conditions, harvesting dates being slightly earlier than usual, the vine completely shutting down at times and rain falling at just the right time. Growers too are much more used to such conditions and cope better with them in both the vineyard and winery. Whatever the reasons, the results are delicious.

The Weather

A season which growers described as ‘parfait’ began with mild conditions and, in contrast with 2021, little frost. April and May were warm and dry leading to an early budburst and flowering taking place in near perfect conditions leading to the promise of an abundant harvest. June saw very warm conditions along with some much-needed rain and problems in the north, with some mudslides in Gevrey-Chambertin and hail around Chorey as well as the southern part of the Mâconnais. From then on it was extremely hot until mid-August which helped avoid diseases such as mildew and oidium, making life easier for the growers. The dryness did cause the skins to thicken on the grapes and led to the vines tending to close down, both of which reduced the potential yield and so made this an average vintage in terms of quantity rather than enormous. Right on cue some showers arrived on the Côte d’Or at the end of August to help complete the maturation process. Harvesting in the Côte de Beaune generally began at the end of August with the Côte de Nuits following on a few days later. Generally harvesting took place quickly in perfect conditions in about 10 days as sugar levels and therefore potential alcohol levels were increasing rapidly.

Our List of Growers:

Bachelet-Monnot * Ghislaine Barthod * Domaine de Bellene * Maison Roche de Bellene * Samuel Billaud * Louis Boillot et Fils * P & L Borgeot * Buisson-Charles* René Bouvier * Domaine Chanson * Domaine Coche-Dury * Vincent Dauvissat * Drouhin-Laroze * Château Fuissé * Henri Germain et Fils * Henri Gouges * Alain Gras * Michel Gros * P & M Jacqueson * Domaine des Comtes Lafon * Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon * Laroze de Drouhin * Domaine Leflaive * Méo-Camuzet * Christian Moreau Père et Fils * Moreau-Naudet et Fils * Odoul-Coquard * Paul Pillot * Henri Prudhon et Fils * Michel Prunier et Fille * Rollin Père et Fils * Armand Rousseau * Georges Roumier * Etienne Sauzet * Tollot-Beaut

(some if these may only be available on allocation, please call for more information)