Larger-than-life, ex-sales director Christian Moreau and his son Fabien, an oenology graduate from Dijon University, provide a great double-act at this domaine. It was started only in 2002; however Fabien is the sixth generation of his family to make wine in Chablis, their family company J Moreau et Fils having been sold to Allied Domecq in the 1970s. Only in 2002 did they become free again to take back the vines and market their own wines. And glorious they are too, with a pure mineral intensity that one only finds at the very top addresses. Those wines can only be the result of much work being done in the vineyards in which nine people are employed fulltime, all for just 12 ha, all managed organically. The vines are in the great part classified ‘grand cru’ and ‘1er cru’ with a 5 ha holding in Vaillon while the Clos des Hospices is a family exclusivity found within the Grand Cru Les Clos appellation which was bought by a forbear from the Chablis Hospice in 1904. Each harvest is handpicked and taken in small trailers to the cellars to avoid crushing and any oxidation. The aim is to make, “A wine of great pureness which is typical of Chablis,” says Fabien so the wine’s fruit is unmarked by oak as the maximum is only 10% new wood, with barrels used up to seven years old.