The Rollins, father and son, had a good ‘normal’ harvest in 2017 for whites and a big one for reds. It was therefore a much happier Rémi Rollin that we encountered this year compared to last! They started on 5th September having had some rain on the 2nd which was deemed to be helpful because the ripening had become a little ‘blocked’. Millerandage – uneven ripening of berries – reduced yields on the whites. The whites in 2017 are super, with black and red fruits on the reds.
In immaculate cellars in Pernand-Vergelesses, just a few miles outside Beaune, the father-and-son Rollin team turn out consistently good wines for medium-term drinking, as well as being a wonderful source of long-lived Corton-Charlemagne. The estate was started by Raymond Rollin who, in the 1950s, started diversifying from selling his crop to the large Beaune houses by marketing wines in bottle. It is his grandson Rémi, born in 1958, and great grandson Simon who are in charge now. Simon was a stagière at Kumeu River, the excellent New Zealand Chardonnay producer. Their vineyards extend to 12 ha, all close by Pernand-Vergelesses. The Rollins have 0.5 ha of Corton-Charlemagne, making about eight barrels on average. The rest of the vines are in Pernand-Vergelesses and in Echevronne up the valley into the Hautes-Côtes, where they have part of their 2 ha of Aligoté vines. They underplay the oak influence on the wines to maintain the purity of flavour, and we at Tanners are big fans of that.