We tasted with Marie Jacqueson, her father was round about as usual, and we met her brother Pierre for the first time. He came back to the domaine in 2015 after a stint studying at the Lycée Viticole in Dijon having been a secondary school teacher. At the same time they expanded the estate to 18 ha with a purchase of 5 ha from a local grower who was going into retirement. Marie and Pierre recalled how they had been to Tanners in 1992 as children, on their way to see family friends in Aberystwyth! “2017 was a sunny year,” said Marie, and they started picking the Pinot Noir on 5th September and the Chardonnay on the 11th. The Pinot Noir in particular produced prolifically, except that Les Chaponnières was touched by frost on 28th/29th April losing 30% of the crop. She feels that the 2017 whites are keepers and the reds are to be drunk young “for pleasure”.
One of the very best domaines of the Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Jacqueson is admired by peers throughout Burgundy. It extends to 18 ha of well-sited, carefully tended vineyards, many containing very old vines, 11 ha in Rully, 6 ha in Mercurey and one hectare in Bouzeron. Some years ago the Jacquesons moved from the cramped garage-type cellars below the family house in Rully into larger premises just below. The interior resembles a Bordeaux chai and is much more practical, meaning Paul Jacqueson and daughter Marie have been able to spread out their beloved barrels two-high. Paul’s father Henri Jacqueson, who died in 2010, founded the estate in 1946 and worked hard over many years to re-establish the name of Rully which had been better known before World War One when the village lost many of its wine growers in the trenches. Henri was the first in Rully to work properly on fruit quality with the all-important reduction of yields. They use no herbicides and follow a strictly sustainable lutte raisonnée regime with minimal use of any chemical products. Paul continues to visit the oak forests personally each year to select his own staves for his casks, which are then weathered at his favourite cooperage. We think the wines are tremendous and the new cellars can only aid in maintaining the quality we have grown to expect from this domaine.