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Used mostly as the dark, sweetening addition to dry oloroso sherries to make creams, PX is often wheeled out at Christmas when its sticky-sweet figgy flavours cope with fruitcakes and chocolate puddings. Poured over vanilla ice-cream, ‘PX’ transforms it into ‘brandy’n’raisin’ ice-cream. The grapes are usually sun-dried to concentrate the sweetness, and being a variety susceptible to diseases, most of it is grown in the cool mountains of Montilla, not around Jerez. In Chile you will encounter it as the base wine of Pisco, or as a fairly neutral white wine.