Müller-Grossmann Grüner Veltliner, Silberbichl, Kremstal 2017
Aromatic, then full and rich with plenty of exotic fruit, mangoes and pineapples but with a good, clean finish.
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This ten hectare estate is situated in the Kremstal region near the River Danube west of Vienna. Today it is run by Marlies Hanke with her husband Florian who splits his time at the estate with a full time job.
Marlies’ mother Helma is now retired, but had tirelessly run the estate since 1986, being joined in 2009 by Marlies. They grow mainly Grüner Veltliner with Riesling, Chardonnay and a bit of Gelber Muskateller and Zweigelt. Fermentation is in stainless steel for the less expensive wines and the Rieslings while the top Grüner Veltliners are made in used, not new, barriques. Sustainability and environmental responsibility are very important to them and the winery has achieved the certificate for ‘Sustainably produced wine of Austria’ issued by the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association. This is a delightful small winery producing wines of great character and purity. The vineyards are split between heavier, loess soils, more suitable for Grüner Veltliner and stonier, mineral-rich soils which work well for Riesling. All are under the climatic influence of the Gottweig mountain, cool and humid breezes from the Waldviertel and dry winds coming up from Hungary’s Pannonian Plain giving warm days and cool nights, ideal for the ripening of the grapes. Their vineyards are split between ‘village’ level, such as Furth and Grosser Satz, and the single vineyards such as Silberbichl with a focus on the origin and the individual styles produced.