Producer: Domaine Coche Dury
Domaine Coche-Dury is a somewhat enigmatic Meursault estate with a cult following for its pure, fruit-driven wines. Founded before the war, the estate was largely expanded from 1964 onwards, when Georges Coche, present incumbent Raphaël Coche’s grandfather, set about buying more vineyard and marketing more wine in bottle rather than selling in bulk to the négociants.
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Raphaël’s mother brought her own vines and name, Dury, to the domaine on marriage. Over the years we have tasted with Jean-François, more recently Raphaël, and occasionally his wife Charlene; sometimes on our own and sometimes in a group and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. Sometimes we taste the wines we buy but often we don’t, but normally there is a fascinating old wine at the end to prove their age-worthiness! What is in common is that we always taste after dark, the Coches claiming that the daylight hours have to be spent out in the vines. It doesn’t matter because the wines are magical! They are the result of very green fingers (Jean-François is self-sufficient in vegetables and grows eight different varieties of tomatoes) and sheer hard work in the vines, with Raphaël being disapproving of growers even taking one day off a week during difficult growing seasons. Using conventional but sustainable methods, they work 11 ha - over half in Meursault - making 16 wines: ten white and six red. The whites are all aged in oak, but the amount of new barrels rarely exceeds 25%, with regular stirring up of the lees. The resulting wines have layer upon layer of fruit flavours and a citrus salinity which allows them to age tremendously well. The reds are often overlooked but are remarkable in their own way too.