Producer: Comtes Lafon
This estate, with its 19th century mini-château, chai and even period dog kennels, is amongst the top white wine producers of the world. That said the red wines should never be overlooked!
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It was largely established by Jules Lafon who added significant holdings in Meursault to parcels already inherited from Marie Boch. Jules Lafon is also known as the founder of the 'Paulée de Meursault', a big knees-up on the final day of the Trois Glorieuses weekend each November. From the original 35 of his friends he invited to a banquet, it has grown to over 600! Sons, Pierre and Henri Lafon, presided over an estate which was largely let out to sharecroppers and was saved from being sold by the return of René Lafon from Paris in 1956. He began the process of bringing the land back in hand, a process completed by his son Dominique. The domaine stands at 16.3 ha spread across four villages and 15 appellations. In Meursault they have ‘Village’, Clos de la Barre, Désirée, Charmes, Goutte d'Or, Porusots, Bouchères, Genevrières, Perrières and Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu. In Volnay there is Champans and Clos des Chênes, and in Monthélie both Les Duresses and Blanc. Then of course they have 0.32 ha of Le Montrachet grand cru. Across the holdings there are densely planted vines with an average age of over 30 years. Dominique, who took over managing the domaine in 1984, was an early adopter of sustainable viticulture. They abandoned weed killer in 1992, ploughing the vineyards instead, and became organically certified in 1998. From that year they started biodynamic trials and are now fully biodynamic, using compost produced in co-operation with other growers. Long gentle pressing of the grapes in pneumatic presses precede fermentation in barrel of the whites with carefully controlled bâtonnage. The whites are aged in principally old barrels for between 18 and 22 months. For the reds, the stalks are removed but they try and keep the berries whole as much as possible for the fermentation. Maturation is for 18 or 22 months in oak with one third being new. The Meursaults have wonderful fruit, and each wine is distinctive and characterful, some being more spicy and some being almost Riesling-like for their aromatic quality. The reds are notable for deep black fruit and silky tannin structures. We are lucky to have a good allocation of wines directly from the domaine, but nonetheless, we can offer greater availability of the Héritiers du Comte Lafon wines from the Mâconnais.