Tablas Creek Vineyard has been pioneering Rhône-style wines since it was founded in 1989, says Graham Mason. Today, it’s a winery that proves anything is possible in the innovative state of California.
A little background: driven by a passion for Rhône wines, U.S. importer Robert Haas became convinced that California’s Mediterranean climate was ideal for Rhône varietals. Harnessing his close relationship with the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel, one of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s greatest estates, they searched for the most suitable vineyard location. After four-years, they settled on a 48 ha limestone-rich plot, 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean, in what is now the Adelaide District west of Paso Robles.
Authentic and uncompromising in their pursuit of quality, Tablas Creek sourced vines such as Mourvèdre, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Syrah, Counoise and Roussanne direct from Château de Beaucastel. By 2020, this homage to Rhône varietals led Tablas Creek to become the first vineyard outside of France with the complete collection of Châteauneuf-du-Pape grapes.
Since Robert’s passing in 2018, his son Jason Haas heads up the business, with Bristol-born Neil Collins having full responsibility for the winemaking and vineyard management. It was Jason that played host to us on our recent visit, taking time to walk us through the vineyards and guiding us through the excellent range of wines.
Speaking openly about their holistic approach to vineyard management, it was clear that Tablas Creek is at the vanguard of regenerative farming. In another first, Tablas Creek became the first winery in the U.S. to receive Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC). This committed approach includes actively improving the health of the soils and the biodiversity of the land whilst addressing the broader issues of animal welfare and farmworker fairness. It noticeably translates into the wines. Whether it’s the releases of Patelin de Tablas, Espirit de Tablas or the single varietal expressions, the attention to detail shines through. Complex, balanced and possessing a finesse not always seen in Californian wines, these are superbly crafted wines made for both the seasoned collector and those just beginning their wine journey.