Few people manage 46 years at one company, making Steve Crosland’s retirement at the end of June a remarkable milestone. Many of you will know Steve from tastings and as the buying mastermind with a passion for history. Since starting as a Christmas temp in 1980, he has worked in Retail, Private House Sales and Buying, before joining the board as Purchasing Director in 2012. To mark his well-earned retirement, Steve has answered a series of questions before he leaves Tanners HQ.
Can you remember your first day working at Tanners?
I worked as a Christmas temp filling shelves at our Shrewsbury Mardol shop and then drove a van temporarily. On my first day working in the shop at Wyle Cop HQ, I dropped a bottle of Léoville Las-Cases 192 in the stores. The smell was fantastic.
There are many roles in the wine industry. Why did you join the Buying Team?
The opportunity arose and it always interested me. It’s a great role, the best in the trade.
When you walked through the doors on day one, what did the company's wine portfolio look like compared to today? Which regions dominated the shelves? And how much has it changed compared to today?
There was a lot of Yugoslav Laski Riesling, Bulgarian Cabernet, Liebfraumilch and Mateus Rosé. We also sold a lot more spirits then than we do now. Some things are making a comeback, such as returnable bottles and draught wines.
You worked at Tanners when the 1984 film A Christmas Carol with George C. Scott was filmed in Shrewsbury; the famous Fezziwig party scene was filmed in Tanners' historic HQ. What was it like to have a film crew in the building?
Chaotic, as they really took over. But they drank quite a lot of expensive spirits and George C. Scott was really friendly.
What have been the biggest changes in wine buying across your career?
The principles remain the same: price, quality and value. Bureaucracy has increased enormously.
Over your career, you must have seen the effects of a changing climate on grape growing and the resulting wine. How have changing weather patterns forced you to review what wines you’ve bought?
I think that’s more a question for the growers. But, overall, quality has improved enormously across the board, and some of that, at least, is down to better and more consistent ripening.
You must have witnessed changing regulatory frameworks across the decades. What was a particularly memorable hurdle that you’ve had to overcome to get a specific wine into the Tanners range?
Regulatory frameworks tend to affect everything rather than specific wines. Brexit was a challenge and keeps on giving, otherwise it’s more a question of geography. Georgia has always been complex, for example.
Changes in wine bottling, particularly the revolution of the screwcap and eco-friendly packaging like bag-in-boxes, have evolved over recent decades. Has that influenced your decisions as a buyer and your conversations with growers and producers?
Screwcap is the biggest one here and is essential for many wines in some channels - it can be challenging as it’s not so important in many other markets.
Looking back, is there a wine producer whom you have become particularly fond of?
There are many, and, like children, you don’t want to pick one out. We’re lucky to work with lots of great producers, and getting on with them always helps.
In your opinion, what’s the most underrated grape variety?
Riesling – sorry to be predictable.
Establishing relationships with growers and producers takes time. Are there producers or families that you are still in touch with today that you first started working with when you joined the buying department?
Yes, many, quite a few from when I started at Tanners. We do value long term relationships.
When you started your wine-buying career, certain regions and styles that are popular today, for example English sparkling, were barely on the radar. What has it been like to observe these regions and styles grow in demand?
Always good to see something take off, sometimes it can be difficult to keep up with demand. Provence Rosé, for example.
If you had to pick just one memorable bottle that stopped you in your tracks, what was it?
I’ve always liked Château Margaux, I’ve had some memorable German wines such as Dõnnhoff’s Eiswein, in the days when it got cold enough to make such things, and Roumier’s Musigny. I’ve been very lucky to taste such wines.
What is the oldest vintage of wine that you’ve tried? And what did it taste like?
I can’t really remember. I’ve had old Château d'Yquem and German wines from the last century. They’re more curiosities than anything and I’d generally say drink things younger when they still have fruit.
You must have been on many tasting trips across the world. Is there a trip that still stands out for you?
I had a memorable trip to Chile and Argentina, but probably visiting Georgia, it’s a fabulous country.
What piece of advice would you give to somebody new working in the wine industry?
Work hard and don’t expect everything to happen straight away. But enjoy it - you learn something new every day.
What will be the first bottle you are uncorking to celebrate your retirement?
I haven’t decided yet, but it looks like it will be a decent weekend, so maybe the newly launched Tanners Provence Rosé.
Steve's Swan Song - Half Dozen
To mark his well-earned retirement Steve has put together a mixed case of his current favourites.
"This is what I'll be drinking over the summer. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive but just wines that deliver in terms of flavour and value for money. They are wines that have character and a sense of place, there are people and vineyards behind all of these, not just a factory-style production. It’s also a varied selection including a slightly sweet slightly sparkling red at 5% alcohol, my favourite of the lot!’"
£109.10 £95
saving £14.10 per case
