The challenge with Beaujolais is its historical ramifications, writes Robert Boutflower: you struggle to get past the idea that it is all ‘Nouveau’! By extension, if you are drinking Beaujolais…aren’t you a bit ‘Nouveau’?
In possibly the most interesting trip that James Tanner and I made last year, a few days ferreting around the Beaujolais hills convinced us (not that we needed much convincing) that these superb Beaujolais wines are simply perfect for everybody! Names that you know, wines you should drink.
Stylistically, they fit into today’s lifestyle: lighter in alcohol and texture, juicy and fruity in spirit, yet sophisticated and capable of lasting quite a few years. I was reminded that on a previous visit some years ago we tasted a faultless and beautiful 1978 Fleurie – and I’m not that old!
The mix of granite hills and some softer limestone valleys brings a vibrancy and life to the Gamay grape, first (and neglected) cousin to Pinot Noir. Enthusiastic and talented winemakers are creating signature wines that reflect their sense of place, so important in standing out from the crowd of rather bland, everyday wines that can saturate the UK market. These are red wines with a bit of whizz, no mass-produced ‘Nouveau-plus’ versions, but carefully-honed reds reflecting their village. Mattieu Mélinand’s wonderfully silky Fleurie (Domaine des Marrans) is on top form, the Morgon Côte de Py from Laurent Guillet as textured and complete as ever and Pauline Passot’s Chiroubles, is charming and supple, a delightful new find. We could have taken more from Sylvain Tête, such was the quality of the reds he showed us. Perhaps we will, if you support us by buying this delightful half-dozen for the sunny summer days ahead.
Beaujolais - Half Dozen
These superb Beaujolais wines are simply perfect for everybody! Names that you know, wines you should drink. Stylistically, they fit into today’s lifestyle: lighter in alcohol and texture, juicy and fruity in spirit, yet sophisticated and capable of lasting quite a few years. The mix of granite hills and some softer limestone valleys brings a vibrancy and life to the Gamay grape, first (and neglected) cousin to Pinot Noir. Enthusiastic and talented winemakers are creating signature wines that reflect their sense of place, so important in standing out from the crowd of rather bland, everyday wines that can saturate the UK market. These are red wines with a bit of whizz, no mass-produced ‘Nouveau-plus’ versions, but carefully-honed reds reflecting their village. Mathieu Mélinand's wonderfully silky Fleurie (Domaine des Marrans) is on top form, the Morgon Côte de Py from Laurent Guillet as textured and complete as ever and Pauline Passot’s Chiroubles, is charming and supple, a delightful new find. We could have taken more from Sylvain Tête, such was the quality of the reds he showed us on a recent visit. Perhaps we will, if you support us by buying more of these delightful wines for the sunny summer days ahead!
£127.85 £110
per half dozen
BEAUJOLAIS AT A GLANCE
LOCATION
Between Central and Eastern France, south of Burgundy and north of Lyon and the Rhône. A semi-continental climate gives warm summers and cool winters.
SIZE
12 appellations, with the regional ‘Beaujolais’ at the bottom, followed by Beaujolais Villages. At the top of the tree are the 10 individual Crus, from south to north: Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Juliénas and Saint-Amour.
STYLE
Traditionally, the lighter styles are made using the carbonic maceration method, giving wines with bright cherry fruit. The crus, on the other hand, are usually made in a more Burgundian style, where the best are age-worthy and develop savoury, earthy notes.
GRAPE VARIETIES
All three colours are made in Beaujolais from two grape varieties. 98% of wine produced is red made from the Gamay grape variety which is also used to make rosé. Chardonnay makes up the remaining 2%, which tends to be a little fleshier and rounder than Burgundy.
WHATEVER HAPPENED TO BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU?
In its heyday in the 1980s, Beaujolais Nouveau Day was celebrated across the country with breakfast parties galore. The hype of those days has passed, but the release of the first wines of the vintage is still celebrated on the third Thursday of November.
Chiroubles La Grosse Pierre, Domaine de la Grosse Pierre 2024
Redcurrant • Fresh Violets • Wild Strawberries
A pale hue, with some delicate redcurrant notes on the nose, much more depth on the palate with some lovely soft, ripe fruit and a hint of black pepper on the finish.
£19.90
per bottle
Juliénas, Michel & Sylvain Tête, Domaine du Clos du Fief 2024
Ripe Red Cherries • Fresh Raspberries • Cassis
A big, silky wine from this most charming region, shows lovely cassis and cherry fruit on the nose and palate. Juicy and long with a touch of spice on the finish. Super now, it will show even more complexity in a year or two.
£19.95 £17.45
per bottle
