Sky-High Vines

Situated high in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a valley in north-western Argentina which historically was the main route between the lowlands and the Andes highlands on the way to Upper Peru, now Bolivia, we find Bodega El Bayeh. To give you an idea of the remoteness, it’s another three hours by road from Salta through some of the most spectacular scenery on earth. Here on the Tropic of Capricorn, were it not for the elevation, which is 2,400m above sea level, it would be far too tropical for vines. Just up the road is one of the world’s highest vineyards at 3,300m, only 200m below the Guinness World Record Holder in Tibet. An historically and culturally important area, it is also naturally beautiful and was granted Unesco World Heritage site status in 2003.

Boutrus Manzur El Bayeh emigrated to the region in 1925, from Lebanon. Pedro, one of his seven children, began a fruit and vegetable business, coincidentally or by design as the name El Bayeh means ‘fresh fruit merchant’. He began purchasing vineyards, but it was 2019 before the third generation evolved this into a winemaking venture rather than a grape selling project, in consultation with Matías Michelini, a leading winemaker from Mendoza. Today, the wines are made by Daniel Manzur and his oenologist Tómas at the El Bayeh winery.

The predominant grape is Criolla, brought to the region by Jesuit missionaries, grown in small parcels by local growers. These are harvested and co-fermented, with natural yeasts in large Spanish amphorae, then racked and pressed with a further 12 months ageing before bottling. The family also owns three estates, all around 3000m altitude making these some of the highest vineyards in the world, with Ollantay at Maimará, whilst Los Faldeos and Finca al Suico are at Huacalera. We tasted a fantastic range but owing to the complications of shipping from this area, they have only recently arrived in the UK. Alongside Criolla, other varieties are planted, such as Malbec and Sauvignon.