According to the Oxford English Dictionary ‘sustainability’ can be defined as, “the degree to which a process or enterprise is able to be maintained or continued while avoiding the long-term depletion of natural resources”. It has become somewhat of a buzzword with all sorts of brands and companies trading off their ‘sustainable’ credentials. Undoubtedly, some of this is greenwashing but in general, over the past decade, there has been a shift; companies are now much more aware of their environmental and social impact on the world, and some are now eschewing the intensive monoculture approach.
Despite some world leaders denying the impact, climate change is happening. We frequently speak to growers who now harvest up to a month earlier than 20 years ago due to the heat, or whose crop has been wiped out by summer hail, or drought or deluges. Every year is a roller-coaster, ‘normal’ vintage conditions no longer exist. To help mitigate this in the vineyard, growers can work to increase biodiversity and improve soil health. In the winery, winemakers must seek to reduce the vast amounts of energy and water consumed. And then there is packaging – so much of a wine’s carbon footprint is in glass bottles. Slowly, producers and consumers are beginning to realise this, more wines are becoming available in lighter-weight bottles, more wine is being bulk shipped to the UK and bottled here, and more wine is becoming available in alternative formats, such as bag-in-box, all with negligible loss of quality. But for these changes to really gain momentum, we wine drinkers need to embrace a shift in mindset.
Whilst we have seen a surge in producers attaining environmental and social certifications, it is important to note that certification does not tell the whole story. Many growers have positive stories to tell around the way they farm but certification is costly and filled with bureaucracy, putting many off.
A glossary of sustainable wine terms
Organic – grapes without synthetic chemicals, pesticides, herbicides or fertilisers. Natural minerals such as copper and sulphur may be used instead. Wines must be certified with organisations such as The Soil Association.
Biodynamic – an extension of organics, which uses a holistic approach incorporating lunar cycles. It uses a series of preparations made from fermented manure, herbs and minerals to enhance soil fertility and plant health. Wines must be certified by organisations such as Demeter.
Natural Wine – is often made using minimal intervention, organic method and little sulphur dioxide. Whilst many of the wines Tanners list could fall into this category, we rarely use the term, there is no regulation around it meaning it is a marketing term rather than a true reflection of vineyard practices.
Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) – French agricultural certification that recognises a high level of commitment to businesses that promote biodiversity, reduce pesticide use and manage water resources sustainably. Certification is available from levels 1-3, with three being the highest.