The Hilt Radian Chardonnay, Sta Rita Hills, Santa Barbara 2021

Precise, energetic, site-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir shaped by the windswept ridges of Santa Rita Hills.

Perched high in the western reaches of the Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara County, The Hilt Estate was founded in 2008 by Stan Kroenke, whose portfolio also includes Jonata, Screaming Eagle and Arsenal FC. Matt Dees is the vision behind the wines. Originally from Kansas, he studied soil science at university, and this passion has fuelled his commitment to growing vines and making wines in extreme environments. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the key grape varieties at The Hilt but never ones to sit still they have been experimenting with varieties such as Riesling and Assyrtiko. The intention has never been to mimic Burgundy, but to produce their own unique style from the rugged terrain and relentless Pacific winds of California’s coolest wine growing area.

The Hilt’s two superstar single vineyard bottlings are from the Radian and Bentrock vineyards, whilst the Estate is a blend of both terroirs. Radian is the most extreme, just 8.5 uninterrupted miles from the ocean on steep, exposed rows with grapes that barely ripen. The vines are covered with netting which at first glance looks to be to ward off birds, but Matt points out these are necessary to stop the wind blasting the grapes off the vines. Matt says this “refrigerated sunshine produces the divine margarita”, the perfect balance of intensely salty, lime driven wines. Bentrock is a little less exposed with long rolling hills and ample, yet cool, sunlight. These wines show more generosity and depth over energy and tension.  The extreme conditions of both sites naturally limit yields, and farming focuses on careful canopy management, soil health and minimal intervention to allow each block to express its character. In the cellar the philosophy mirrors the vineyards with gentle handling, native fermentations and restrained use of oak to emphasise purity, texture and structure.

With rave reviews from critics these distinctive wines that captures both the power and the wild coastal energy of this remarkable corner of California are not to be missed.