With connections to Great Britain going back over 1,000 years, you may feel that you know a fair bit about Bordeaux wines. Certainly, the famous names and glorious châteaux make headline news and eye-watering prices. There are many more wines from the region, however, that are much more humble, qualifying for the ‘everyday drinking’ tag.
Bordeaux and its vineyards are about two hours south-west of the Loire Valley, perhaps three hours from the Sauvignon Blanc heartland of Sancerre. It’s therefore mildly surprising that the Sauvignons of Bordeaux lie somewhat forgotten these days, especially as their style and substance can closely match those of the Loire Valley, and often in a softer, rounder fashion. They are also very good value for money. Of course, there are well-known examples from the top châteaux too that push the quality (and price) much higher, and our recent forays into Bordeaux have recorded a surge in white wine production across the region. Try Château Tour de Mirambeau Blanc which has zip and lemony freshness.
Simple reds can also be the order of the day, for weekday supping, for example, and Bordeaux does them as well as, and often better than many other regions of France. These are easy, balanced reds that work wonderfully well with so many dishes from the classic roast beef to spag bol on a Tuesday night!
However, sadly, we don’t drink enough of them. There is a crisis in Bordeaux around the over production/lack of sales of their simple reds, the ‘drinking clarets’ that we know and love. To resolve it, and the Bordelais truly believe this will work, the winemakers will produce a style of wine going forward that is light in colour, fresh in flavour and to be drunk from the fridge, or cooler at least than the traditional style, that many know so well. A bottle of ‘Claret’ so labelled from Tanners, and many other wine retailers up and down the country, will be a completely different animal to the one you may have grown up with; the level of tannin and the burst of fruit in the mouth will be more akin to a Beaujolais. This is a decree, driven by the French growers and wine authorities with scant regard for their history or existing markets, and to be laid down in law in all probability in the next twelve months. You won’t be able to buy a traditional claret with the word ‘Claret’ on the label. Will it solve the crisis? Unlikely, but these are desperate times.
Before this mayhem and madness comes to pass, we can at least steer you in the direction of some easy, friendly Bordeaux Rouge that you can drink with pleasure. Serge and Julian Coudenc at Château Moulin de Mallet, grow mostly Merlot in a super spot just across the Dordogne River from the Saint-Emilion vineyards. Theirs is a mellow, red plum-flavoured claret with a smooth texture and clean finish that has more substance and feel than others at this price point – a cracking drop of wine and, of course, you must pick up a bottle of Tanners Claret whilst you still can!
Versatile, friendly, it’s time to rediscover the heart of Bordeaux.
