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How to find the best Crozes-Hermitage
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How to find the best Crozes-Hermitage

Consisting of a whopping 2000 ha, Crozes-Hermitage accounts for nearly half of all vines in the Northern Rhône. With so many wines to choose from, Christina Albon offers some tips on what to try.

Crozes-Hermitage hasn’t always been the behemoth it is today. When the appellation was first created it consisted of the slopes around just one village, that of Crozes. Over the years, as its pedigree has grown, so has the area under vine, which for red wines is always 100% Syrah. A small amount of white wine is made too. This newer land encompasses vaster, flatter, alluvial terraces, where some 10 million bottles are made annually!

Today, buying a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage comes with risk: it’s fair to say that not all those 10 million bottles can be of equal stature and quality. But fortunately, there are plenty of great producers out there making great wine. One such couple are Hélène and Jean-Pierre of Domaine Mucyn. With a small 13 ha plot right on the 45th parallel, this is the epitome of Northern Rhône’s spicy, juicy Syrah. Fully organic and shrouded in apricot trees, their vines are lovingly tended – just as the name ‘Les Entrecoeurs’ (between two hearts) might suggest. Their Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Les Charmeuses, shows restrained stone and citrus fruit with subtle oak aromas, leading on to a textured, minerally palate with ripe apricot and a captivating freshness.

The illustrious domaine of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, which was founded in 1834, is now run by Caroline Frey, who is also owner and winemaker of Château La Lagune in Bordeaux. Under Caroline’s ownership this domaine is now back at the very top of its game, with Caroline winning plaudits for her commitment to organic viticulture and protection of the environment.

Another hugely sought-after producer is Domaine du Colombier, run by Florent Viale and his brother David. When Florent took over from his father, he built the reputation of the domaine by deciding to bottle his own wine rather than sell the grapes to others in the appellation. These intense, powerful wines are always the highlight of a tasting. Their Crozes is a lovely rounded, supple wine with ripe tannins and long flowing flavours. Notes of mulberry, sweet spice and pure, juicy fruit shone through in this very appealing wine. Also look out for the Cuvée Gaby, this is a selection of the very best barrels and is named after Florent and David’s father.

In many French wine regions, cooperatives and collaborations have a part to play in bringing more accessible wines to the table. Whilst it’s true that you need to choose wisely, there are some excellent co-ops out there. Coeur de Clairmont differs to the big village-based co-ops, in that it is a privately run collective of nine winegrowing families who pool resources and work collectively for economic benefit to produce their fresh and airy Crozes-Hermitage, which is superb value.