A few of the Tanners Team recently embarked on a sparkling visit to Laurent-Perrier in Champagne. From breathtaking historical cellars to gastronomic feasts, hear about their highlights of the trip.
Emma Pook, Commercial Manager
We were delighted to be invited to Champagne as guests of Laurent-Perrier in May this year and huge thanks go to our hosts, Joe Ellis & Elena Bucataru, who were fabulous ambassadors for the brand, giving us a private tour and tasting at the Maison and several fabulous opportunities to try the range with some incredible food! Perhaps as my job title suggests, I was particularly interested in understanding what sets Laurent-Perrier apart from the competition…
The Great Innovator
Although Laurent-Perrier’s roots can be traced back to 1812, it was in the 20th century that they really started to make a name for themselves, driven by the efforts of the somewhat legendary Bernard de Nonancourt. Having taken over running the business in 1949 at just 28 years old, he was President of the Laurent-Perrier Champagne house for more than fifty years. Bernard was the first of the Champenois to bring stainless steel tanks to the region (from Sweden!) in 1973 - these same tanks are still used for reserve wines today. He also loved to socialise, Champagne in hand, and didn’t just want to drink sweet champagne which was then the style du jour. So ever the innovator, Bernard was the first to create a brut nature zero dosage Champagne in 1981 – launched under the Ultra Brut label.
A Cut Above
What really sets Laurent-Perrier apart from the competition is its continuing quest for excellence. To elaborate, from 1950 to 2015 there have been 52 general ‘vintage’ declarations in Champagne (including Grand Marques, Growers & Co-Operatives), while Laurent-Perrier have only declared 31 in that same period. Their top Champagne, Grand Siècle (translating as ‘great century’) in its iconic bottle reimagined from the shape popularised in the 17th century, always comprises three exceptional vintages blended together. For Laurent-Perrier, each vintage must have the potential to age as a still wine, then a further 10 years maturation on the lees (even longer for magnums).
Laurent-Perrier use an exclusive strain of yeast to ensure freshness in their Champagnes and they actively avoid brioche/toasty notes, with their signature style defined by apple and citrus flavours. All of their wines go through malolactic fermentation, which softens the acidity in the wine- unusual by many Champagne standards, but this step provides the desired mouthfeel.
Laurent-Perrier Today
Today, Laurent-Perrier hold 42 million bottles in their 12km of underground cellars and produce around 8 million bottles annually.
Their top cuvées retain a desirable edge of exclusivity with only 3000 bottles of Grand Siècle and just 60 bottles of the Rosé Alexandra released to the UK market each year.
Perhaps most famed for their rosé, there’s a reason you get what you pay for here! Unlike the majority of pink Champagne, where the desired colour is achieved by blending in a little red wine, Laurent-Perrier’s Cellar Masters have perfected the maceration method since this label’s inception in 1968. Inspired by Bordeaux winemaking originally, leaving the Pinot Noir skins in contact with the juice is technically extremely difficult to get right. It requires testing of the juice every few minutes after the first 48 hours, to ensure just the right colour and the beautiful ripe red fruit aromas that Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé is famed for.
James Howells, Assistant Manager, Hereford
Champagne and food
Champagne can be its own worst enemy when it comes to food pairing because it can’t help being the centre of attention: the welcome drink, the toast, the pre-dinner tipple and so on… I almost forgot how utterly gorgeous it can be with food.
It was how Champagne complemented the food that was the real delight for me. The crisp, clean zero dosage and cuvées cut through the rich dishes, while the full, opulent lees-aged vintage bubbles stood up beautifully against the complexity of the other dishes; it was sensational.
The tasting reminded me just how much range and diversity there is within everyone’s favourite bubbles. So, the next time you are planning a special meal, move the Champagne up from an apéritif to meal status, you won’t be disappointed.
Family
At first, the site of Tours sur Marne with the lavish gardens and beautifully grand buildings could lead you to think that the pomp and ceremony was to purely impress guests, but once we met our hosts, they proudly flew the flag of a ‘family run’ business.
This is a house that truly deserves its place in the top tier of the Champagne world.
Myles Grant, Area Sales Manager
We arrived in the heart of Reims to find a vibrant, diverse city basking in the afternoon sun. A stroll through the centre confirmed its charm, with the stunning Cathedral and locals enjoying Champagne outdoors—a quintessential Reims experience. As evening fell, it was our turn to indulge. We began with the 2012 vintage as an apéritif, followed by a short walk to Restaurant Les Foch. An Ultra Brut Champagne accompanied a delightful array of four starters. Next came the 2015 vintage, expertly paired with beef tartare and oyster foam - a standout moment in food and wine harmony. A generous serving of John Dory followed, its rich garlic and herb espuma beautifully balanced by another pour of vintage Champagne. Dessert was accompanied by the iconic Laurent-Perrier Rosé, perfectly complementing a whimsical strawberry and candyfloss creation.
The experience was both immersive and unforgettable, highlighting the care, expertise, and generosity that define Laurent-Perrier.
The trip of a lifetime.
Rachel Huber, Wine Adviser, Chester
The vineyards are lovely, the cellars are an exquisite maze showcasing years of pioneering in Champagne engineering and there are many fascinating and elaborate tales, but the delicate bubbles of the tasting portion were the true showstopper for me.
Their Blanc de Blancs, Brut Nature was astounding. Flavours of lemon curd and salted caramel, topped with creamy béchamel, coat the palate for the perfect savoury sip. It was unlike any Blanc de Blancs I’ve sampled before.
The Grand Siècle is a true winemaker's wine. Aged for 10 years and devoured in minutes, it’s clear why its named the “Great Century”. Highly expressive with layers of Brazil nut, clementine, honey glazed pastry and deep roasted truffle aromas, it has become a work of art (as well as the liquid of choice to baptise the granddaughter of Bernard!).
Tom Manley, Wine Adviser, Shrewsbury Cellars Shop
Descending into the cellars under Laurent Perrier, I was hit by the history and permanence of the place and the guide's tales of family lineage and royal warrants cemented this further. But, with a closer look, you can see that even these bastions of tradition are ever changing. During the tour, we were shown the disused concrete fermentation vats (installed at obvious great expense), which recall a time when Champagne was unrecognisable compared to the Champagne produced today. It was interesting to discover that their Ultra Brut, created when Brut Nature category did not even exist, was a creation aimed at British consumers. With exacting standards and careful quality control, I look forward to seeing what Laurent-Perrier will do next.
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