From hydro-powered estates in the Alps to sheep-tended vineyards in Shropshire, Marketing Manager, Christina Albon looks at the winemakers who are taking meaningful, measurable steps.
When speaking with Christof Tiefenbrunner recently, a confused look crossed his face when I asked about their sustainability initiatives. As it turns out, everything they do at the estate is rooted in sustainability – it’s not a trend they’ve adopted, but a way of life that has always been central to their philosophy.
Back in 1910, Johann Tiefenbrunner had the foresight to build a hydro-electric power station that met not only their own needs but those of two neighbouring villages. As power demands grew, the original 85kW output became insufficient. The station was rebuilt in 2001 and, along with solar PV, now supplies around 90% of their energy. This ethos extends to the vineyards too where herbicides are avoided and biodiversity is encouraged through green manure and alternating row mulching. Dry stone walls, built from local stone, prevent erosion, support habitats, and help store rainwater for natural irrigation.
And the wines? Superb. The Merus Pinot Grigio is a far cry from those of Veneto – it’s textured, layered and delicious; a Pinot Grigio for wine lovers. Müller-Thurgau too, comes into its own in the Alto Adige, where it is full and flavoursome. Native to South Tyrol, Lagrein a cousin of Syrah, grows on hillside vineyards at around 300m and offers real character.
Philip Cox, owner of Cramele Recaş, doesn’t mince his words around sustainability. He is a firm believer in taking action, in his opinion too much greenwashing is happening and not enough real change, which is why they are investing in, and experimenting with alternative packaging types. They bottle in lightweight bottles and have moved more than 50% of their company fleet over to electric vehicles. The 4.5 ha solar PV array provides 20% of their energy needs (no mean feat for a winery with a capacity of 39 million litres!) and their wastewater plant treats 600 cubic metres per day. Their Orange Natural Wine is produced with minimal sulphites and as little intervention in both the vineyard and winery as possible. 30% of the grapes are fermented on their skins in amphorae whilst the rest go into stainless steel, providing a great introduction to the orange wine style.
Keep it local
One of the biggest sources of emissions in winemaking comes from packaging and transport, making a strong case for buying local. And what could be more local than wines from twins Zoë and Melissa Evans at Rowton Vineyard? Their five hectares of grapes are farmed less than 10 miles from Tanners in Shrewsbury, and they use lightweight bottles to reduce unnecessary emissions. Instead of conventional international varieties, which struggle in the UK’s damp climate, Zoë and Mel have planted PIWI grapes (from the German Pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning “fungus- resistant”), which are a promising innovation for sustainable viticulture in the UK. To improve soil health, Shropshire sheep are wintered in the vineyard, and 16 species of cover crop promote biodiversity. Any cardboard waste is given to cattle on the family farm, where it’s trampled into straw litter, then composted and returned to the land. We’re not the only ones who are fans of Rowton Solaris, well- known critic Matthew Jukes, is too, “everyone should track down this delightful wine”.
Social Responsibility
The impact of climate change is already being felt in the Champagne region. Temperatures have increased by 1.8°C in the last 50 years, spring frosts are causing more damage than ever, and harvest can start up to 20 days earlier. Laurent-Perrier, like many champagne houses, is investing in sustainable technology. They hold the HVE Level 3 and Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne certifications and as Royal Warrant holders they submit an in-depth 80-page sustainability report. Their Cuvée Rosé is iconic, in its distinctive, curvaceous bottle. We’ve been won over too, by their Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature having recently tasted it and adding it to our range.
With both Organic and Sustainable Austria certifications, Weingut Müller-Grossmann, run by Marlies Hanke, is leading the charge with sustainable winemaking in the Kremstal region of Austria. The winery not only adopts environmentally conscious practices but also demonstrates a strong commitment to social responsibility. They partner with local schools and vocational centres, to provide workshops and training days and an apprenticeship programme. Their sponsorship of local festivals and cultural and heritage events demonstrates a tangible commitment to engaging and benefitting the local community in Kremstal, whilst also collaborating with other businesses to host sustainability projects and initiatives aimed at preserving local agricultural heritage.
Grüner Veltliner is the signature grape of Austria where it typically comes in two distinct styles: light, fresh citrus and white pepper style or spicy, weighty and rich. Marlies’ Grüner Veltliner, Satz Viertel, Kremstal is in the former camp, and ideal for summer entertaining.
Regenerative Farming
Chile has long been known for producing wines with minimal chemical input, thanks to its warm, dry climate and low pest pressure. This has helped drive the Sustainable Wines of Chile movement, which encourages action in the vineyard, winery and community. The Sutil family in Colchagua has taken this further, embracing regenerative farming focused on restoring soil health, boosting biodiversity and building ecosystem resilience – creating a self-sustaining, climate- friendly system that benefits both environment and vine. They’re also cutting their use of virgin glass, with 58% of bottles now made from recycled sources.
The Cucao wines made by Sutil are the perfect summer sippers, the Sauvignon is bright and fresh, whilst the Merlot provides charm and ease. Over at Churton in New Zealand, they too have adopted a holistic approach and farm using biodynamic principles. Their excellent Best End can be found in the Sustainable Sauvignons for Summer mixed case.
