Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur

Case includes: 6x Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, 5e cru classé Pauillac 20236x Château Laroque, grand cru classé Saint-Emilion 20236x Château Batailley, 5e cru classé Pauillac 20236x Château Tronquoy, Saint-Estèphe 2023

Case includes: 3x Château Angludet, Margaux 2023 - Magnum3x Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, 5e cru classé Pauillac 20233x Château Lafleur-Gazin, Pomerol 20233x Château Laroque, grand cru classé Saint-Emilion 2023

Case includes: 12x Château Angludet, Margaux 202312x Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, 5e cru classé Pauillac 202312x Château Lafleur-Gazin, Pomerol 202312x Château Laroque, grand cru classé Saint-Emilion 2023

Case includes: 6x Château Léoville Poyferré, 2e cru classé Saint-Julien 20236x Château d'Issan, 3e cru classé Margaux 20236x Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5e cru classé Pauillac 20236x Château Pontet-Canet, 5e cru classé Pauillac 2023 (organic)

The last of an excellent lineup tasted at the chai, the Grand vin is superb! A delicious nose of ripe black fruit, floral, dark berries and spice hint at the underlying power and svelte nature of the Ausone. Irresistible, it delivers a concentrated core of dark fruit, seamlessly integrated oak, velvety tannins and joy. Add into the mix an evident minerality and saline, mocha notes on the finish you get an effortless, precise wine not to be missed! 5-15+ years.

A compote of red and black fruit on the nose, then quite a tight, tannic feel to this, quite gutsy with a fine bead of oak behind some decent dark fruit at the core. Attractive and complete, this may be more of a keeper than others, needing time to show its best. The second property of Domaine de Chevalier since 2009, it’s a useful wine, well-made  by the main team and an honest one that gets overlooked.

The second wine of Château Gruaud-Larose is always worth consideration. Initially a little tightly wound but it soon opens up showing aromas of black cherry, plum and spice. On the palate, it exudes hints of liquorice, mocha and more black fruits. Well-structured with evident grippy tannins, this is a more serious wine than the 2022 so will reward further time in your cellar. 3-9 years.

An oaky, vanillary nose over some spicy fruit on entry, then quite a broad but tightly-grained structure. Some depth of flavour but, apart from a stony finish, this feels a little atypical compared with other Saint-Estèphes with more tannin and extraction. 3-9 years.

Set in a magnificent position up on the limestone plateau, Laroque must be one of the most impressive châteaux in the Saint-Emilion region, with the bonus that it is making fabulous wine! Between 1920-1950 it fell into disrepair but is forging back; with David Suire at the helm the critics (and ourselves) love it. Crushed raspberry and strawberry fill the nose, then it is limpid in the glass, juicy and vibrant. The texture is suave, the wine very focused with a bright fresh feel. It has a chalky structure but there's superb balance and a sensual core of fruit. A lovely long, sophisticated style, truly impressive. 5-15+ years.

This is a magnificent medieval château complete with restored drawbridge over a wide moat. You can imagine the knights of the tourney charging up the tilt ground in front, maybe to secure a barrel of this excellent red Pessac. Enough of the whimsy, Olivier has made a sweetly fruited and vibrant wine in 2023 with lashings of red plum and raspberry, a fine backbone of tannin, a joyfully juicy centre and the cutting edge of a clean finish. Definitely worth fighting for some. 5-15 years.

Ben Sichel, winemaker at Angludet, described a particularly challenging time in 2023, with the heat of 2022 as the root cause of a significant drop in yield compared with many other properties.There is 17% Petit Verdot in the blend, which gives a lush core to the wine and a pretty, juicy character. There's silky tannin backing the fresh raspberry fruit, and a clean, pure finish. This is a mid-term Margaux of high quality, it's organic traits very much to the fore. 5-15 years. 

About a third of production has gone into La Dame, and the style is fruity, quite elegant and sappy on the nose with a soft, fleshy fruit in the mouth with good, ripe tannins, plenty of minerality and a juicy finish. An excellent second wine, with real depth and sapidity. 3-9 years.

Much more density and richness from the top dog in the Lorenzetti Family stable. Jean-Michel Wilmotte is increasing the polish and precision every vintage, and it shows. They got their Cabernet, which comes from plots all over Pauillac, harvested at the right time, and the focus is perfect. Behind some lovely mulberry and blackberry fruit is a touch od spice, powerful but silky tannins and excellent length of flavour. Generous, harmonious, quite linear but easy on the finish. As good as we can remember.

An attractive lesser-known Pomerol which flies somewhat under the radar because the quality here is always good. Ripe dark plum on the nose with a touch of mulberry. Nice mouthfeel, soft and round backed with nice tension and good length. Very nice juiciness with texture and substance, and a precise slightly salty finish. Another good effort.

The Pauillac member of the Villars-Lurton stable made plenty of wine this year, 53 hl/ha and all of it biodynamic with that clean, fresh Villar feel that Claire puts on her wines. Darker in colour with a riper, richer nose from being further up the Médoc, the fruit fills the mouth and there’s some chalky tannin behind it. More intense than the Margaux wines, it has drive and presence as well as a fuller finish. A good, well-made choice this year.

From the plateau in Pomerol, as the name suggests close to the church, this is an excellent wine with the clay soil giving super depth with good tannins. There is plenty of red and black fruit to give balance as well as the juiciness typical of the vintage. Owned by the Casteja family since 1973, this property is making excellent value wines. 5-15 years.

A very successful wine with plenty of black cherry fruit on the palate, soft tannins and touches of attractive, toasty oak. This is a medium weight well balanced wine with good freshness. Well situated at the edge of the Pomerol plateau between Gazin and La Fleur-Pétrus. Run by JP Moueix since 1976.

Frederic Casteja makes things happen in Bordeaux. “A good campaign is a quick campaign,” he said, while berating neighbours who watch the market and sit on their hands. His tenure at Batailley has improved the quality while keeping the price under control, and his wine is once again a firm recommendation. Almost minty on the nose, over sweet black fruit. Then dense on the palate with a bit of chew, currant on the back palate. Linear and grainy with an oak framework, this feels blocky, gourmand and should keep a bit.

Appealing, fresh blackberry and currant on the nose that continues to the palate where a framework of toasty oak takes over with a lick of liquorice in behind. Claire Villars-Lurton explained that the tannins here have got silkier from better vine management and stopping pumping-over several vintages back. Ferrière is stylish, has a swish feel to it, and is rather overlooked in Margaux in general - it is a Third growth and Eric Boissenot consults.

Yet more applause for this wine from the Borie-Manoux (Batailley) stable, now a good value Pauillac with damson, a soft texture at its core and easy oak giving a round, friendly structure. Freddie Casteja, who’s family home this is, has been working hard to improve his wine and that work is paying off. This is a well made and characterful mouthful.

There is a quiet level of refinement at Branaire that has become more apparent in recent times, and we like it a lot. Saint Julien is often the overall winner when we look back at our notes on the value and class across the appellation, and Branaire is right up there. François-Xavier Moreteau told us that the blend of 60:30 Cab to Merlot with 10% Cab Franc seems to be optimum across these vineyards, and we agree. His wine has lovely aromas, a hint of oak under blackcurrant, then blueberry and cinnamon on the palate. Juicy, round and fresh with lovely mouthfeel, some density but very pure and beautifully balanced, it?s a dream to taste now yet presence and command. A winner. 5-15 years.

From a property on the limestone plateau close to the town of St Emilion this has lovely strawberry aromas with a very complete palate with more black fruit and even hints of liquorice. There is just a hint of oak on the finish which also has good, soft tannins and attractive freshness. 5-15 years.

A very complete wine with masses of blackcurrant fruit, supple tannins and good freshness. This has real presence together with balance and elegance. The 9 hectare proprty has belonged to the Vayron family sine 1840 and is well situated on the gentle slope of the Pomerol plateau.

A very attractive wine that director Thomas Soules describes as 'Atlantic style' with juicy, soft fruit with easy, ripe tannins and good freshness, minerality and balance. The Cabernet Franc was very successful here, resulting in a high percentage being used in the blend. This property is located just below the town of St-Emilion and has a fascinating history. One of the ancestors of the owners, the Malet-Roquefort family, even accompanied William of Normandy in 1066!

So often 'Gentleman's Claret', this year you'll find a svelte, trimmed wine with lovely curranty notes on the nose, some cedar even, then very swish in the mouth, poised and elegant with layers of fruit and spice. Refined and easy while long in the finish, it has perfect oak and a fluid, fresh feel. Emmeline Borie was very pleased with it, rather more so than with her builders who have started on a new winery but are taxing her patience. "It will be wonderful for your next visit, she said, adding, "hopefully next year!" No need to wait until then for a brilliant wine, however. Buy the 2023.

Another big and juicy wine from Pessac, there is plenty of smooth black and red fruit here, quite layered in the mouth with some firm grained tannins mid-palate. The oak is smoky, there is good length, the whole wine is quite straightforward and structured without much elegance but plenty of presence. There was a lot of sorting of grapes here this year, and after 40 vintages Olivier Bernard feels he is still learning! Chevalier is a chunky wine this year, reflecting those deep gravel soils.

Léoville is darker and denser than Langoa ? we usually taste them side by side ? there is also more length and power here. Seductive and smooth with good density and fine acidity on the back palate. Attractive, sweet fruit on the finish, density and some

A standout Saint-Julien of the vintage. Always one of the more generous wines of the commune, the Poyferré is brooding with aromas of black cherry, violets and mocha. Generous and dense on the mid-palate, it manages to pack a punch whilst coming in at a modest 13.1%abv. Framed by fine tannins and juicy multi-layered fruit, hints of graphite and cedar on the finish, this is an absolute triumph! 5-15+ years.

A very fine Trottevieile with silky red fruits, lovely concentration and balance with the 100% new oak seamlessly integrated. This small property, owned by the Casteja family, goes undeer the radar but produces wonderful wines from the limestone slopes just outside St-Emilion. This terroir has given great poise and elegane to the wines 2023.

Opening with a gorgeous perfumed, nose of violet, spices and black cherry, the mid-palate delivers more, juicy black fuits, plum, liquirice, cranberry and mulberry fruit . Well knit with fresh acidity and fine grain tannins this is a sumptuous effort which has a promising future.

Beychevelle is a large property (bizarrely with a flock of stone penguins in the garden to the rear!) that has long been pursued by the Chinese market. With that outlet somewhat dried up, we have been lured back and encouraged by recent investment and a step up in quality. The new chai is superb and the wine coming out in 2023 is very impressive. It is most seductive on the nose, ripe currant and cassis with a swirl of raspberry, then dense, rich damson in the mouth, lovely supporting oak and a harmonious finish. Length is excellent, it is bold yet refined with the substance to go further than others. Phillippe Blanc has made a delicious wine worthy of note.

Winemaker Nicolas Audebert was either at Château Canon or possibly on Chanel's island in Provence (making wine?), so we tasted with Jean-Basile Roland who is the font of much knowledge at Rauzan anyway! There are 100+ plots of vines around the property with 25 different soil profiles and, with a challenging year, this takes a lot of management. But the results are superb, probably because of this careful segmentation. Jean-Basile reminded us that this was a hot year with late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon the key, and Rauzan is 85% Cabernet of the highest quality. A great nose kicks off, with lots of flower and red fruit, with a touch of spice. It's very concentrated in the mouth with a muscular density that finishes with a rhubarb sappiness and inky depth. A big wine with depth and balance, intensity of flavour and plenty of structure. Should keep well. 5-15 years. 

Alfred Tesseron at Pontet Canet was thrilled to see us at 8:59 on Tuesday morning and berated his son, Noel, who arrived at 9:20. The chai is beautiful, the new 'eggs' (fermenters) in position, a herd of horses in the stables - the place looks immaculate and it's no wonder the results are superb. The wine had classic Pontet poise, lots of pure fruit backed with that organic ‘freshness’ he says they have been after since starting to convert 20 years ago. It is beautiful, succulent and fresh with a layered texture. Delicious mid to long-term drinking we thought, with bags of style - a top Pauillac. Interestingly we had tasted the 2005 vintage the previous evening and were struck by the similarities in structure and flavour.

Delicious compote of flavours on the nose: raspberry and red plum, cinnamon spice, mulberry and stewed damson, all continuing into the palate too. Super mouthfeel, layered cassis richness and round texture, good depth of character and clean on the finish.

Another very fine Canon and one in which the limestone terroir really shows through giving fantastic uplift and elegance to the layers of juicy red and black fruit. There are beautifully soft and integrated tannins here with he amount of new oak restrained and some large foudres being used instead of barrels. Almost ethereal, very long, very fine. 5-15 years.

A wonderfully supple wine with great purity of ripe fruit. Elegant and long, this is almost Burgundian in style with very fine tannic structure, the result of gentle maceration and extraction.  There is a fantastic new winery at Bélair which Edouard Moueix is rightly proud of and which enables them to work in a much more precise manner. Fantastic wine.

Bruno Borie was hobbling rather when we pitched up, recently fitted with a bionic part. His enthusiasm for his latest vintage was as infectious as ever, You've come to taste a great wine? A big job to make but we love it!? he said. They had a long harvest here, from 16th Sept to 7th Oct but the grapes came in healthy and with good yields. Ducru feels very plush this year, good tannins maybe more four-square than some other places but supple enough with tempered oak coming through on the finish. It's long in the mouth, saturated black fruit with a raspberry edge and the whole quite fresh on the end. Another very good effort, full of character and flavour.

A very silky and seductive wine with plenty of fruit and elegant tannins. There is real refinement and elegance here overlying good structure and with the hallmark balance and freshness of the vintage. Owned by JP Moueix since 1950 this is on the best ter

Rather castigated across Bordeaux last year for over-cooking the 2022 release price (fortunately they have rectified this for 2023!), we were amused to see in the official en primeur leaflet that they compare this vintage to 1771… On a more serious note, Antoine Gimbert explained that they now handle the fruit extremely gently, stopping pumping-over and letting the juice filter through as softly as possible. With many small vats they can handle individual plots far more carefully, the sum of the parts making a very impressive whole. Las Cases is a real curranty beauty - intense and concentrated in the mouth, very balanced, textured with beautifully crafted tannins. Generous, long, very clean with a lovely finish. 

Brooding, black fruit, damson and mulberry on the nose. The mid-palate delivers savoury and mineral notes amid layers of blackberry, cranberry, cassis and spice. Well structured, with bright acidity (the vintages calling card) and chalky tannins, the Carraudes has a long finish. Its hallmark Pauillac character is as a result of the highly prized Lafite ‘Caudeyrac’ plot, it’s sourced from.

Superb damson and cassis on the nose with creamy oak behind. This is a seductive wine with richness, layers, complexity in the mouth, that bright finish again over wet stones. The length is prodigious and the wine more accessible and charming than we have seen in the past. There is more Cabernet Franc in the blend than usual (double that of Haut-Brion), and perhaps this has lifted and lightened the whole wine.

The last of the lineup tasted at Clerc Milon. On the nose there are hints of smoke and bacon fat sitting behind more pronounced notes of black fruits and spice. Energetic and well structured, there's super a concentration of black fruits, cassis, damson, black olive and tobacco mingling seamlessly with the oak and lick of bright acidity. Delivering a hint of toast and spice on the long finish, this is a dynamic Grand Vin.

The 2023 Château Margaux is a classic in the making. Restrained and slow to reveal itself at first, with some encouragement it provides aromas of lavender, black cherry and clove. There’s a deep, unctuous core of black and purple fruit, hints of oak and an exciting energy coursing through the mid-palate. Juicy and salivating, it’s supported by generous ripe but silky tannins, and concludes with long, graphite laden finish. With an abv of 13.1%, this is an approachable first growth, but there’s no need to rush to drink it, this is just the beginning of a beautiful journey. Definitely a Château Margaux to seek out.

Fresh and aromatic nose with hints of redcurrants leads to a palate full of red fruit, well balanced with fine tannins. 'A very nice vintage for us' says owner Mathieu Ternault'. 0-5 years

Cissac does it again, with a wine they liken to a blend of 2020 and 2022. Winemaker Laurent Saint Pasteur added that he works hard to preserve the fruit character so he limits the extraction a bit more than he did a decade ago, and, interestingly, they have a fine plot of old Malbec which almost ‘seasons’ the blend. Harmonious and ripe, we were very impressed and Cissac gets top marks this year. Will keep a bit too.

‘Old Robin’ looks good in 2023. The property itself is unremarkable but we missed the fierce dog at the gate. We like this wine in warmer vintages and there is certainly a denser side to it this year. The nose has quite a floral note with blossom coming through. The palate feels mellow, the tannins are supple with a touch of chewiness in them, quite integrated while the finish is fresh and clean. Another good effort from the northern Mèdoc.

There are some great pickings to be had in the satellites of the Right Bank this year, and we enjoy the wines from Jean-Baptiste Bourotte, no more so than the wine that carries his moniker. Being pure Merlot it tends to be quite straightforward; there is a purity of black fruit, some tension and acidity on the palate with chalky tannins to round things off. A juicy, easy and early drinking wine. 3-9 years.

While it’s a long trek up to Begadan in northern Medoc we always get the warmest welcome from cousins Frederic and Benjamin. This Tanners favourite is a very attractive wine in 2023; well textured and smooth with the fresh plummy character of the best Medocs on display, a beautiful claret for the mid-term while the characteristic freshness of the vintage makes it sing in the glass. Delicious. An excellent La Tour de By with fresh aromas and plenty of black fruit on the palate backed up with soft and ripe tannins. There is good fresh acidity too with great length. This is very attractive wine that will drink young but also has the potential to age.

While we invariably taste Puygueraud at one of the main Thienpont properties like Larcis Ducasse, Nicolas reminded us that many moons previously (1990 possibly?) we went to this property in the Francs which is the family home, and we must visit again as soon as we can. A date has been suggested. In the meantime we can report that Puygueraud is as good as ever, quite creamy and fleshy in the mouth with a supple blackberry jam feel on the end. It has many fans and for drinking mid-term it is an excellent Right Bank choice.

"The 2023 Saintayme is pure Merlot, as usual, picked between September 27 and October 4 and matured in 30% new oak. This is quite lush on the nose with black plum and light blueberry scents and fine purity. It clocks in at 14.6% alcohol, but that is nicely disguised. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture, moderate weight and good balance. There's perhaps slightly less complexity on the finish compared to the 2022 at this stage last year." Neal Martin, vinous.com

Tasted at Talbot, the junior member is still a very good wine, and continues to impress us. There is very attractive fruit character on the nose - floral, bit of fennel, hint of tobacco even and a core of black fruit. Well balanced on the palate, with structure and texture behind lithe fresh fruit, some chalky tannins on the finish. Very nicely made. 3-9 years.

Typically attractive aroma here, a compote of sweet red and black fruit then gentle and soft in the mouth. Easy, silky feel on the structure and supple in the finish. Very good again, if more ‘up front’ and forward with quite a vivid, saline end, courtesy of it’s organic credentials. Part of the growing Lorenzetti empire and reaping the benefits of top winemaking investment – Lafon Rochet is also now in the stable alongside Pedesclaux. Continues its good recent run and always worth a good look.

Melanie Barton has made another good wine in tricky conditions, with Moulis suffering with mildew early on. There’s good black fruit character, quite tempered and stylish in the mouth. Nice structure with ripe tannins all in balance and then juicy and fresh on the finish. Lighter and elegant this year compared with last, it’s a clean, early drinking claret with plenty of charm.

This property has been on our radar for quite a few years, but recent vintages have seen it move up a notch. The clay soils here are quite deep, the vines planted in two plots near Neac and in Lalande itself. Michel Rolland has had a hand in the wine making process in the past, and the style is quite dense with sweet fruit and well-integrated tannins. For a ‘Rolland wine’ you’ll find more charm than guts, and it is very appealing. Well worth a look this year.

This has plenty of sappy red and black fruits backed up with toasty new oak flavours and touches of spice on the finish. Jean Mestreguilem calls the vintage "complicated, but finally good" observing that it's very ripe which you can certainly see in the quality of the tannins. A very fine wine which Jean suggests is close to 2020 and 2010 in terms of style.

Fruit forward this year with pure black fruit on the nose backed up by nice warm spice and some licorice. The balance is fine, the emphasis on early drinking with that juicy fresh fruit backed by easy, soft tannins. Fronsac, to the west of the major Right Bank areas, still has great terroir and can produce some lovely, expressive wines that are invariably good value. 3-9 years.

A smoky hint is followed by plums, black cherry and violets. Juicy and fleshy on the palate with excellent depth of fruit. This is well balanced with some chewy tannins, ideal for short term cellaring. 3-9 years.

Made of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc the 2023 impresses from the of! Your senses are immediately hit by a wealth of intoxicating melon, grapefruit and stone fruit aromas backed up by red apple skin, rose and flora. There's plenty of zip in the Lune but no lack of complexity, this is a balanced blanc which ofers depth and a real joie de vivre. 0-5 years. Expected abv 13%

From the Dubourdieu stable, the 2023 Floridène leaps out of the glass with a heady nose of lemon zest, yellow fruit and chamomile. The palate is fresh with layered creamy, white pear notes. Perhaps more generous than in previous vintages, but still ofering the racy acidity you'd expect, fans will not be disappointed. 0-5 years.

Another Dubourdieu entry, the Grand Vin Doisy Sec is wonderfully aromatic. Leaning towards the richer end of the scale, with notes of white peach, lemon rind and wet stone the Doisy is a nervy, fine lined joy. 100 % Sauvignon Blanc, the 2023 is nimble on its feet, energetic and the epitome of exciting Bordeaux Blanc. 0-5 years. Expected abv 13%

A floral and citrus nose leads to a palate with full and waxy flavours, pear and quince with excellent minerality, vivacious and sappy. Very well balanced with great length. A textbook white Bordeaux. 3-7 years. 

Picked before the heat spikes to preserve the acidity and receiving four months batonnage, the Caillou delivers a super medley of grapefruit, white peach, apricot, mandarin and key lime. Rich and full in style but with salivating acidity, this is bit of a 'gastronomic' wine and one I think you'll adore. Full of expression and depth, drink it in its first five years to catch it at its best. 0-5 years. Expected final abv 13%

A big and silky wine, rich and creamy with great depth of fruit and a touch of oak showing on the palate to give balance. Ripe and full but finishes with plenty of taut acidity. This is a very fine wine in a very great vintage for dry white Bordeaux. 3-9 years.

While it’s a long trek up to Begadan in northern Medoc we always get the warmest welcome from cousins Frederic and Benjamin. This Tanners favourite is a very attractive wine in 2023; well textured and smooth with the fresh plummy character of the best Medocs on display, a beautiful claret for the mid-term while the characteristic freshness of the vintage makes it sing in the glass. Delicious. An excellent La Tour de By with fresh aromas and plenty of black fruit on the palate backed up with soft and ripe tannins. There is good fresh acidity too with great length. This is very attractive wine that will drink young but also has the potential to age.

While it's a long trek up to Begadan in northern Medoc, we always get the warmest welcome from cousins Frederic and Benjamin. This Tanners favourite is a very attractive wine in 2023; well textured and smooth with the fresh plummy character of the best Me

While it’s a long trek up to Begadan in northern Medoc we always get the warmest welcome from cousins Frederic and Benjamin. This Tanners favourite is a very attractive wine in 2023; well textured and smooth with the fresh plummy character of the best Medocs on display, a beautiful claret for the mid-term while the characteristic freshness of the vintage makes it sing in the glass. Delicious. An excellent La Tour de By with fresh aromas and plenty of black fruit on the palate backed up with soft and ripe tannins. There is good fresh acidity too with great length. This is very attractive wine that will drink young but also has the potential to age.

A fantastic wine, rich and concentrated with plenty of botrytis, honeyed fruit with citrus and spice touches and good freshness to give balance. Picked in three 'tris' with a resulting yield of 12 hl/ha. A 'very beautiful year' says Christian Seely. 150 g/l residual sugar. 5-15+ years.

A fantastic wine, rich and concentrated with plenty of botrytis, honeyed fruit with citrus and spice touches and good freshness to give balance. Picked in three 'tris' with a resulting yield of 12 hl/ha. A 'very beautiful year' says Christian Seely. 150 g/l residual sugar. 5-15+ years.