Burgundy 2023 En Primeur
Overview
A bountiful vintage of concentrated, fresh wines. Following on from the healthy quantities produced in 2022, domaines were able to go one better in 2023, with many achieving close to record-ever yields. Understandably, with cellars full to capacity, producers were all smiles. A relatively trouble-free growing season was punctuated by heatwaves during the harvest and as ever deciding exactly when to pick was crucial. For those making the right call, the resulting wines are well-balanced and charming, delivering real pleasure in a glass.
The Big Picture
The wines of Burgundy have never been so popular. A raft of press column inches has been dedicated to the enduring and ever-growing demand for the region’s most desirable ‘names’. Villages such as Chablis, Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée have attained such a following that for many there is no substitute for these pedigree expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Following on from the healthy 2022 vintage and with a bumper harvest in 2023, surely it’s a return to the good times of generous allocations for all Burgundy enthusiasts? Well, possibly but a word of caution. The 2024 harvest, particularly in Chablis, has been frankly dismal or in the words of Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, ‘catastrophique’ in terms of yields. Despite cellars being full to the gunnels of 2023s, individual domaines and négociants have one eye on next year, and many have chosen to hold onto sizeable quantities to make up for the significant shortfall in income next year. We’re glad to report that on the pricing front, many are the same, or in some cases less than 2022. With the prospect of stable pricing and excellent quality, this will be a sought-after vintage, so with lower-than-expected quantities available we urge you to choose early and, as always, the sage advice of seeking out the lesser-known villages still holds true.
The Wines
It’s hard to recall tasting a vintage from barrel that was so immediately appealing. From our first tasting of the week with Ghislaine Barthod and Louis Boillot to the very last with Arthur Gras, it was evident this is a generous vintage in both quantity and quality. Sharing the innate charm of 2017 and the concentration of 2019s (other vintages are available!), the 2023s have a suppleness and freshness that make them so very attractive from the off. The best possess no hard edges, no excessive acidity, no lack of fruit concentration, nor questionably high alcohol levels – they are superbly balanced, with each element playing its part to perfection. The lack of extreme growing conditions with a late heat surge in late August and September has delivered deliciously ripe whites of concentration and appealing texture. The aromatics are enticing, with beautiful floral and exotic notes. My scribblings are littered with references to citrus, honey and pear on the palate with salivating but not bracing acidity. For Chardonnay picked later in September, the added ripeness delivers more yellow fruit with a broader mouthfeel, but they still retain an elegance and freshness. As for the Pinot Noir, one of the key issues was whether the large crop may affect the levels of concentration, but we found this not to be the case. Registering more on the red fruit scale than black, there is plentiful depth and purity on display. The tannins are silky, almost ‘sweet’ in some cases, which in addition to the bright acidity gives the reds an approachable, juicy nature. Possessing an irresistible finesse from Bourgogne up to Grand Cru level, it’s hard to fault the 2023s, simply put, enjoy!
The Weather
In short 2023 was a relatively straightforward year which ended in a heatwave and provided a bountiful harvest.
After a relatively mild winter, fluctuating weather patterns in April delayed budburst just a few days which had the advantage of missing the frosts this year. This was followed by favourable conditions in May and from around the 20th of the month things began to warm up. The flowering started at the end of May with the 7th June being the mid-point, and conditions were excellent with mostly sunny weather. A few thunderstorms at the end of the period provided moisture for the vines and knocked the caps off the flowers allowing the wind to assist in the pollination giving a potentially large crop. July also brought thunderstorms, high temperatures and humidity so vigilance was needed in the vineyard for disease control. Hail on the 11th and 15th July caused some very localised problems in the Mâconnais, Chalonnaise and Meursault but the rest of the region was spared. Veraison, the colour change, came early this year in the middle of the month in warm but not too hot conditions which also provided a good difference between the warm days and cool night-time temperatures. Many performed green harvests in late July and August in order to reduce the potential crop and increase the concentration of the final wines, those that didn’t risked making dilute, characterless wines. The rest of the summer saw warm, sunny conditions interspersed with beneficial rains before an unseasonably warm period for the harvest with temps over 35ºC. Many chose to harvest at night or only in the cooler mornings to give the pickers a break and preserve freshness in the wines. The whites looked superb with Chardonnay and Aligoté responding well to the conditions this year. The Pinot needed more sorting, many doing it three times to remove any shrivelled or sunburnt grapes, but the year was so bountiful it was an easy sacrifice to make so only the perfect berries were used.
Vintage Report
With the prospect of stable pricing and excellent quality, this will be a sought-after vintage, so with lower-than-expected quantities available we urge you to choose early.
Cellar Cases
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Containing one bottle each of the village, the 1er cru Vaillon, and the four grand crus: Vaudésir, Les Clos, Valmur and Blanchot. This would make an amazing gift for any wine lover, and it is an excellent way to learn about the quality levels and difference of vineyard and site in Chablis, not to mention the style of Christian Moreau Père & Fils! We have a very limited number of mixed cases available.
Case of 6
£320.00 /
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
An impressive parcel of nearly three hectares in a single plot with an average age of 55 years, with 40% aged in barrel. This is stunning, seamless, pure, weighty but beautifully balanced with fine definition and great length. 5-15 years.
Case of 6
£396.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A rich expression of Chablis from 55 year old vines 50% aged in oak barrels. the richness is evident on the nose and palate with riper fruit character, a note of honey and floral hints with weight, depth and opulence. Delicious.
Case of 6
£396.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
This parcel was planted 27 years ago and 50% is aged in barrel, just 3% new oak, the other half in Stainless steel. Very fine and elegant with gentle citrus notes and a hint of white flowers, a note of ozone and wet stones before an elegant finish. 3-9 y
Case of 6
£396.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
This vineyard has been in the family for over 120 years. Being at the bottom of the slope has richer, more clay soils, which gives more richness, weight and fullness to the nose and palate. Intense, juicy with great body and a very long finish. 5-15 years
Case of 6
£516.00 /
Chanson Père & Fils
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A rich nose with plenty of ripe, white peach fruit. On the palate it is soft and approachable with plenty of fruit weight but it also has a luscious, saline character that lifts the finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£150.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A Chanson Monopole, meaning they own it all, this has a fresher nose with more complexity and lift. Still plenty of sweet fruit but more complete and showing lovely balance of the red and black fruits, a juicy minerality and some effortlessly silky tannins.
Case of 6
£312.00 / -
Still White | Case of 3
Still White
A rich butterscotch nose with ripe citrus and peach fruit. It is intense on the palate, although very pure with it, with a fine mineral back bone and a long succulent finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 3
£360.00 /
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Clean and fresh with plenty of ripe apple and pear fruit with even a note of vanilla custard! Juicy, fresh with notes of sweet apple and lemon curd but with a dry clean finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£108.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A lovely, easy style this year with plenty of juicy red and blue fruit character. Some gentle, ripe and rounded tannins bringing some depth and a succulent finish that makes it a pleasure to drink. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£108.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Open and fruity with notes of stewed pink rhubarb and something a little weightier with sweet damson fruit. Some ripe tannins on the palate with a hint of spice. A lovely appealing, juicy style and good length. 3-9 years.
Case of 3
£294.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
From a 2 ha plot in the middle of Gevrey, this is rich and ripe with plenty of blue fruit character and a nice warming note of spice. More damson and blueberry fruit on the palate but beautifully balanced and succulent with fine definition and length. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£318.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
More intensity here, showing a great blend of crisp red fruits with hints of blackcurrant and an herbal streak. There is fine weight and depth on the palate, yet it still exhibits the juicy style of the vintage. A fine, lovely finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£318.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Pleasantly open and approachable. There is a wonderful crispness to the fruit as well as depth and complexity. It is elegant with soft rounded tannins and a charmingly fresh finish. 5-15 years.
Case of 3
£411.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
A toasty nose with plenty of raspberry confit but also a more savoury character, roasted coffee and a hint of charcuterie. Rich and round on the palate with nice silky tannins and some more red fruit flavours before a long, long finish. 5-15+ years.
Case of 3
£525.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Intense, black raspberry liqueur fruit with spice and a hint of vanilla oak, there are fine tannins on the palate as well as rich blueberry fruit. A little closed but showing a really long finish and great potential. 5-15+ years.
Case of 3
£555.00 /
Domaine Henri Gouges
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Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
The fruit is more cassis here with an almost Ribena fruitiness but tempered by the fine structure this premier cru brings to the wine. Ripe tannins are well rounded and balanced with a touch of spice. A very complete wine already. 5-15 years.
Case of 3
£231.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A lovely mix of crunchy berry fruit and something a little more meaty and richer on the nose. It is fresh and juicy with some cassis amongst predominantly raspberry fruit, some rounded tannins are present but nicely balanced and integrated. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£237.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Very attractive this year with a nice combination of red and black fruits, with a twist of herbs and spices. Juicy and fresh on the palate with plenty of structure and depth but rounded and pleasing with a delicious finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£288.00 / -
Still Red | Single bottle
Still Red
Dark fruited but with a lovely elegant floral note amongst the black raspberry, cherry and currant fruit. This is dense and intense, with richness and plenty of silky, smooth tannins before a lovely long finish. Super. 5-15+ years.
Single bottle
£300.00 /
Domaine Leflaive
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Still White | Case of 3
Still White
Very pure on the nose as usual from this Domaine. Plenty of elegant, white fruit with attractive floral accents. It is crisp and mineral but with a sweeter note of white peach coming through bringing a richer tone before a fine crystalline finish. 0-7 years.
Case of 3
£450.00 / -
Still White | Single bottle
Still White
Open and appealing with a wonderful balance of the ripeness of the vintage and the fresh, structure this vineyard gives to its wines. Plenty of weight and richness but with firm structure and body before a very long and elegant finish. 3-9+ years.
Single bottle
£540.00 /
Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils
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Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Lighter in style but still characterful and flavoursome with bright cherry and berry fruit. A gentle, warm note of vanilla from the oak with enough depth and it is fresh, juicy and clean on the finish. 0-7 years.
Case of 6
£150.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Very bright and open full of charming red fruit with a hint of dark cherry too. It has a pleasing herbal note, plenty of sweet fruit and gentle structure, a very enjoyable, classic, village wine. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£204.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A vibrant, fresh, crunchy, fruit character with a hint of smoked meat, just a touch of oak present bringing a pleasing note of spice. Rich and silky on the palate with more crunchy fruit and plenty of freshness to lift the ripe fruit character. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£240.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Showing intensity and depth, a lovely mix of mostly red fruits with a hint of something darker and an elegant floral note too. Lovely weight on the palate, with juicy fruit and an appealing ripe style, very silky tannins and great balance. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£276.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Great concentration and intensity on both the nose and palate this year, the weight suggests this will close up but be a little patient and you will be rewarded there is a lovely, elegant, mineral streak to balance the depth of fruit and fine tannins. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£291.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Situated at the end of the Lavaux valley around 200m from Ruchottes-Chambertin this is seriously good. A heady blend of sweet, ripe, dark fruit with a lighter, mineral, juicy character, some floral notes and beautifully balanced tannins. 3-9+ years.
Case of 6
£390.00 /
Domaine Michel Gros
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Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Fresh and juicy on the nose and palate full of bright cherry fruit with a charming herbal quality. The palate is full of crunchy red fruit show decent weight and a pleasant, easy finish.
Case of 6
£96.00 / -
Still Red | Single bottle
Still Red
This sees 100% new oak but has such power and body that it swallows it whole! Intense damson fruit, very fine, rounded tannins and a note of dark coffee and bitter chocolate but all beautifully integrated with wonderful depth and great length. 3-9+ years.
Single bottle
£165.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Clean and fresh with a lovely mix of crunchy red and black fruit character rich on the palate with plenty of ripe damson fruit and a note of espresso. Whilst the finish remains fresh, juicy and long. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£216.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Showing more red fruit on the nose with floral notes and a hint of spice, the palate is fresh and very mineral initially, before a rich and warming feeling of toast and coffee. Plenty of fruit weight and some fine tannins on the finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£342.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Very pleasing and pretty nose with predominantly red fruit and sweet floral notes. Some dark chocolate notes are added on the palate with super-concentrated mouth-filling sweetness and beautiful balance. Very good. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£342.00 /
Domaine Odoul Coquard
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| Case of 6
From 3 parcels of vines, two in Gevrey and one in Morey. This is excellent old vine Bourgogne Rouge packed full of lovely, ripe, cherry fruit. Nicely perfumed with good concentration, rounded tannins and a clean juicy finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£102.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Good intensity here with some sweet oak notes amongst the concentrated fruit on both the nose and palate with darker notes of coffee and fruity dark chocolate before vibrant cherry fruit, supple tannins and a pleasant, long, characterful finish. 0-7 years.
Case of 6
£204.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
The 50+ year old vines bring a depth and minerality to the wine. The nose is an attractive mix of red and blue fruits with a hint of toasted teacake, while the palate seems fresher. There is great vibrancy and succulence before a fine, elegant, mineral finish.
Case of 6
£216.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
From two parcels of old vines this has vibrant, fresh red fruits on the nose and even more crunchy fruit on the palate. It is elegantly powerful showing great depth and weight but never seems heavy, remaining elegant throughout. 5-15 years.
Case of 3
£330.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Great intensity here, the power is obvious but so is the fruit, a little darker and a little spicier but always elegant. Rich, floral, spicy, with notes of cherry, mocha, rose and damson and a very fine, persistent finish. 5-15 years.
Case of 3
£330.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
S‚bastien considers this his third Grand Cru! It has wonderful depth and concentration, the succulent cherry and berry fruit remains juicy and there is warm notes of spice. Wonderfully fine, rounded tannins bring extra depth and length. 5-15 years.
Case of 6
£420.00 /
Domaine Rollin Père et Fils
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Harvested after the heatwave, this delay has allowed the Hautes Côtes to express some super ripeness while still keeping a freshness and predominantly white fruit character to the wines. Concentrated and mineral with a hint of spice on the finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£84.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Fresh and juicy on the nose before some lovely mouthwatering damson fruit. There are some fine, silky tannins as well as a nice minerality even a hint of warm citrus on the finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£120.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Fresh and juicy on the nose before some lovely mouthwatering damson fruit. There are some fine, silky tannins as well as a nice minerality even a hint of warm citrus on the finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 3
£132.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A terroir that always adds freshness to its wines. There is plenty of chunky red fruit verging on some darker fruit and beautifully rounded tannins provide structure before a fresh, attractive finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£177.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
More obvious ripeness on the nose with a slightly darker feel to the fruit and a little more density to the wine. It still retains the juicy vibrant character of the vintage but with wonderfully rounded dark fruit and freshness on the finish for balance.
Case of 6
£216.00 /
Domaine Tollot Beaut
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Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
The last plot harvested at this estate, it is full of ripe, plummy fruit with notes of spice from the oak. Plenty of ripe damson fruit, with a mouth-watering succulence and some spicy, toasty oak, plenty of weight and a lovely note of spice on the finish.
Case of 6
£150.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Pretty, lighter style with more red fruit character and a hint of warm spices. Juicy and very approachable on the palate with oodles of creamy red cherry and strawberry fruit with fine ripe tannins to finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£192.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A little backward on the nose, this wine usually is when young, on the palate it shows some super, sweet fruit with damsons and something a touch more savoury, plenty of tannin but the profile is soft and silky, before a fine, long finish. 3-9+ years.
Case of 6
£252.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A wonderful blend of red, black and blue fruit with a notable herbal twist of thyme and mint. Plenty of structure but the tannins are well formed and nicely rounded. The whole has a lovely, elegant feel as well as a very long finish. 5-15+ years.
Case of 6
£456.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
A wonderful blend of red, black and blue fruit with a notable herbal twist of thyme and mint. Plenty of structure but the tannins are well formed and nicely rounded. The whole has a lovely, elegant feel as well as a very long finish. 5-15+ years.
Case of 3
£468.00 /
Henri Germain et Fils
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| Case of 6
From vineyards next to Santenay, this has a very pure and pretty Pinot nose with crunchy red fruit and just a hint of oak. Fresh on the palate too with a pleasing succulence, plenty of strawberry and raspberry fruit and very rounded tannins. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£168.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Full of luscious, bright cherry and berry fruit, there is weight and power here but also freshness and elegance. There is a herbal note coming through too, adding to the super concentrated fruit and is followed by a very long and appealing finish. 5-15 years
Case of 6
£270.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
More richness, more structure with darker tones to the fruit and a meaty note of Bayonne ham. Soft on the palate with ripe, raspberry fruit and still the succulent character of the vintage bringing welcome balance on the finish. 5-15 years.
Case of 6
£270.00 /
Henri Prudhon et Fils
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Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Intense, red fruits on the nose, sweet, wild strawberry fruit with a touch of darker cherry and hint of fresh mint. It is approachable with silky tannins and a fine weight of juicy fruit, all making it supple and easy to drink. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£120.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Attractive, white fruit nose with a hint of clove. Plenty of body and texture on the palate and a pleasingly juicy style with a citrus tang and a hint of fresh ginger on the finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£150.00 /
Méo-Camuzet
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| Case of 6
Case of 6
£204.00 /
René Bouvier
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A gentle note of vanilla, toast and honey on the nose. This is a generous Bourgogne Blanc showing plenty of weight of white fruit with some riper yellow fruits too. It is clean and fresh on the palate with a lovely citrus finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£108.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
This is a stony site which always endows the wine with plenty of mineral energy. It has very perfumed, aromatic, raspberry fruit with hint of red rose petal, plenty of mineral structure and gentle tannins before a ripe and juicy finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£192.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
A proper Village Gevrey from 7 parcels, this is pleasantly open and accessible already. Some lovely, silky black fruits and notes of spice, this is juicy, round and approachable. 5-15 years.
Case of 6
£270.00 /
Roche & Domaine de Bellene
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Lovely honey and pear fruit, this is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Aligoté. The Aligoté brings a fresher lighter character to the wine, which is charmingly open and sweet fruited with a touch of nuttiness on the finish. 0-3 years.
Case of 6
£69.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Inviting, white flower nose over white peach fruit with a sweet, honey character. It is soft and easy on the palate with oodles of juicy fruit but with fine acidity and a long, elegant finish. 0-5 years.
Case of 6
£105.00 / -
Still White | Case of 3
Still White
Inviting, white flower nose over white peach fruit with a sweet, honey character. It is soft and easy on the palate with oodles of juicy fruit but with fine acidity and a long, elegant finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 3
£150.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Pretty, perfumed, floral nose with gentle red fruits, richer on the palate showing more body, ripe tannins, plenty of juicy strawberry and raspberry fruit with an elegant freshness on the finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£150.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Clean and fresh with good, succulent berry fruit, the palate has a good blend of soft tannins, spicy oak and summer pudding fruit before a fresh finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£168.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 3
Still Red
Clean and fresh with good, succulent berry fruit, the palate has a good blend of soft tannins, spicy oak and summer pudding fruit before a fresh finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 3
£213.00 / -
Still Red | Case of 6
Still Red
Very elegant with generous, fruit character and a gently perfumed note. There are some silky tannins on the palate with a lovely mineral edge, plenty of richness with lovely weight and depth on the finish. 3-9 years.
Case of 6
£216.00 /