The Doppler Effect

James Tanner takes us on a tour of the little-known vineyards of Slovenia.

Many years ago, while exploring the vineyards of Friuli, I took a wrong turn and ended up at a Slovenian checkpoint. I was short of time, and it was at the height of the Balkans war, so I turned back, always regretting it, and always meaning to return, which didn’t happen until last year! Slovenia – not to be confused with Slovakia – is south of the Alps, one country below Austria, and one above Croatia. Italy and Hungary hem it in on the east and west. Natives will tell you that its shape looks like a chicken, but I think you have to squint to see it! Part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918, later it would become the northernmost part of Yugoslavia. In the 1970s, private businesses evolved where previously there had only been cooperatives. Slovenia became independent in 1991 and joined the EU in 2004. Yugoslavia’s soft brand of communism left a legacy of localism and community mindedness, which perhaps has helped to create a vibrant wine industry. Slovenia is a remarkably clean and green (both in colour and outlook) country. It’s a mecca for food and wine lovers, walkers, fishermen and cyclists.

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